Serbia - Belgrade(2)

As some of you know the main reason for our visit to Belgrade was to locate the grave and pay respects to Lt M.C. Bekker, 25 Squadron South African Air Force, an Uncle of mine, who lost his life as a bomber pilot in WW2.  Their B-26 Martin Marauder, a fast medium bomber, was shot down over Yugoslavia on 4 May 1945, he was Co-Pilot at the time. It was the last mission of the squadron for the war, all seven crew members perished. For more detail click the links below :-

http://www.saairforce.co.za/forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=4156

http://anewad.blogspot.com/2012/09/croatia-zagreb.html

The fulfilment of this quest and the homage thus paid will remain one of the highlights of this Adventure of ours.

Headstone of Lt M.C. Bekker, South African Air Force, Belgrade War Cemetery.

Headstones of the seven crew members

At the going down of the sun and in the morning
We Will Remember Them

B-26 Martin Marauder

SAAF Ensign 1940-1951

Serbia - Belgrade(1)

The journey through Germany, Austria, Slovenia and Croatia was swift using the very well maintained motorways of those countries. They cost you using them, make no mistake, but if distance is what you need to cover you have no choice.
We have not been to Serbia before, and because of the Balkan conflict after the break up of Yugoslavia, it has not always received a good press. How time can change things, because since our arrival a few days ago we have seen only good hospitality and service with a smile. Serbia is open for tourism!
We are at CAMP DUNAV which is on the Danube some 10km west of Belgrade. It has hands on management, clean ablutions, bar with outside tables and chairs under canopies, warm sunny days at 25+ Centigrade and no crowds yet. It is still early in the season and we have as company 5 Dutch 'vans spread around the site.

http://en.camping.info/serbia/serbia/camping-dunav-22163

Firstly some pictures of the views we have:-

The Danube by day and ....

.... the Danube by night. The night skyline of Belgrade.

More news and pictures to follow, including why we came to Belgrade in the first place. Today, Friday the 10th of May, the weather is sunny with 28C forecast. A visit to Belgrade for some looking around, maybe a light lunch on the Skadarlija, a street known for cafes, bars and restaurants, in central Belgrade - recommendation by the camp management.

France - From Calais to Kaysersberg

Yes, both Calais and Kaysersberg are in France. The one faces Dover across the English Channel and the other is so German you could be forgiven for thinking you were in Germany. The stellplatze (camperstop) adjacent the town was packed when we arrived late afternoon and we could not understand why, so we decided to take a look the next morning. Our sole purpose for stopping over was to buy some Alsace wine from that very small wine producing region in France. It is situated right on the German and Swiss borders in the far south east of France near the Rhine.

And what a find this was! Kayserberg, or the Emperor's mountain. It has changed 'ownership' twice already belonging to Germany before both World Wars, only to be taken back by France after both World Wars, no wonder many town folk spoke German and the very Germanic building style all around.

Town centre of Kaysersberg

'Model' chickens

Flowing through town

The bank on the Town Hall square

Now we could understand the reason for the packed camperstop! And the subsequent inevitable tourist buses arriving. I drew cash from the bank, we bought our case of mixed reds and whites, Pinot Noir, Pinot Blanc, and Gewurztraminer.

Also freshly baked bread and croissants for brunch later. Very important is freshly baked French bread, they are very good at it.

A New Adventure - Continued. April 2013 onwards.

So the Adventure continues! 

We arrived on the outskirts of Dover last Monday for our 14:00 departure to Calais with two and a half hours to spare and decided to while away the time with a brunch at the Battle of Britain Memorial. Cereals with muesli and raisins adorned our dinette table and soon afterwards we went for a walkabout on the site.

It was a sunny day with views across the Channel from the cliffs above Folkestone. We spent almost an hour looking around and reminiscing on those fateful months of 1940. Soon a whole new information centre will be built to tell and fully explain for generations to come, the story of the Battle of Britain.

Battle of Britain Memorial

"Never in the field of human conflict was so much owed, by so many, to so few".

Winston Churchill 1940

Arriving at the Dover ferry port for check-in we were offered an earlier departure, and with minutes to spare, made the 13:00 crossing to Calais. Wonderful, as that meant we had an extra hour to cover some distance in France.

Saying goodbye to the white cliffs of Dover

A calm crossing in sunny weather with Blighty disappearing in the distance. Back on the road we are with Part 2 of the Adventure about to kick off.

Summary and Reflections on Year 1 of our Adventure

Some thoughts and a brief summary of our Adventure from May 2012 to March 2013.

Countries visited.

After the month spent touring around England and Wales, we left for the continent in early June 2012. The supposed summer (very rainy) found us travelling through the Flemish part of Belgium, the Netherlands, Germany, motorway through Austria and Slovenia to Croatia, Italy, Sicily for the winter, and back to England at the end of March 2013.

Route

Dover-Calais crossing.

Belgium:- Brugges - Knokke - Waterloo - north Flanders.

The Netherlands:- Provinces of Zeeland - south and north Holland - city of Arnhem in Gelderland.

Germany:- A very comprehensive 6 weeks travelling across and through the whole of Germany. From the industrial heart on the Rhine, to Berlin, to near Rostock in the north, south to Dresden, Munich, the Alpine region and Berchtesgaden.

Motorway through Austria and Slovenia with rain most of the way over three days.

Croatia:- Zagreb area mainly to the east (Kloster Ivanic), the Adriatic coast from Senj to near Split.

Italy:- Verona in the north, Tuscany, Cassino, Pompeii and Vesuvius, Sorrento, Cropani Marina in Calabria.

Sicily:- Giardini Naxos on the east coast for 6 weeks, Santa Groce on the south coast for 6 weeks.

Back to England via the French Riviera, Lyon, Dijon, Reims, Compiegne, and the Somme battlefields of WW1.

Campsite impressions

Belgium had good free stops and good inexpensive ones too. Holland proved expensive and free camping is not allowed. It was July and prices were inflated, some charging 30+ Euros per night.

Germany was a pleasure from a motorhoming perspective because they cater so well for this mode of travel. You are welcome everywhere, they want you to stop and stay and spend your money. That will explain why the Wohnmobil (Motorhome) business in Germany is so big. It can be as cheap as 4 Euros per day!

Campsites all over were good and ablutions generally clean, yes some more than others. You do have a choice and you can move on, or use your own shower and toilet in the 'van. I did complain twice in Italy at two different stops. 

Shopping and Food

The Netherlands had the nearest to what we are used to - also good bread. Germany the best in cold meats and Schinken. Croatia the best chicken. Italy for meze or deli goods. Belgium the best beer, and the strongest! For subtlety and roundness Germany, cheers to the Reinheitsgebot.

Wine find was the Chianti's in Italy, cheap and consistently good. Our stay in the Chianti region in Tuscany will be long remembered.

The fish platter in the seaside town of Senj, Croatia was superb, expensive but very tasty. A harbour cafe on the sea, no frills very plain and cooked by the owner himself.

Saturday market in Vittoria, Sicily, needs mention. Good choice of veg and meat. The fish market in Catania too, if you knew what to get and could say so in Italian.

Our Christmas meal in Giardini Naxos, Sicily was excellent, restaurant well chosen by fellow motorhomers Ian and Linda, who live in Italy.

Lastly, the meals prepared by ourselves in our own Fifi - all of them 5 star!

Winter in southern Italy and Sicily

This was one of our objectives, to escape the British winter. We swam in the Med until mid November and then spent 12 weeks on Sicily in mainly good weather with many sunny days. Sundowners in Scarabeo near Santa Groce outside our 'vans! Where in the UK can you do that in Feb and March?

Walks on a beach in sandals and shopping on your bicycle to the nearest town 5km away. Sunsets over Mt Etna and the walks into Giardini for an Espresso or Latte. Or walking the hilly streets of Taormina with views across the Strait of Messina in 22 Centigrade mid December!

Thoughts and Summary

The definition of travelling; don't expect things to be the way they are at home - they won't be.

- Would we do it again? YES!

- Mileage:- 11,000  miles (17,000km) over the 11 months.

- Most enjoyed was Germany. Best coastal / seaside experience Croatia. Best for cycling Belgium and the Netherlands. Best for 'doing it their way' Italy. Best for 'nothing is a problem' Italy and Sicily. Worst litter problem southern Italy and Sicily in places, they just don't care. Best sunsets Croatia.

Most eye opening city experience was Berlin. The Germans are rebuilding their former capital at a pace and with finance which is mind boggling.

And now onto the next phase of our Adventure, that being Year Two of A NEW ADVENTURE. The story continues .... please stay tuned.

England - St George's Day

St George's Day

Well it is the 23rd of April and it is the patron saint of England, so a special mention here of that day.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Saint_George's_Day

We will spend the day continuing preparations for our departure on the second year of 'A New Adventure'.  The past weekend was spent at the annual motorhome show at the East of England showgrounds in Cambridgeshire, looking at the 2013 range of motorhomes from various manufacturers, a multitude of gadgets and gizmos for motorhomes, anything from awnings to battery powered bicycles and flags to adorn your pitch and show your country of residence.

Fifi and flags

Not to be outdone we duly bought a telescopic pole, Union windsock on top and the England flag of St George's to join the hundreds of other 'vans flying all manner and means of bunting at the show.

A bit of fun if nothing else .... !

Also had a bbq (braai) in a friend's garden, flag and all.

Sunshine and sparkling wine

St George's Day

France - ABC; Ardeche, Beaujolais, Calais

We left the Riviera and travelled north towards Lyon and then west following the road going through the Ardeche, an area of beauty criss-crossing the Rhone and Loire rivers several times. We also free camped on the banks of the Loire near the town of Le Puy for the night.

Viaduct near Tournon-sur-Rhone 

Crossing the hills of the Ardeche after recent snow

On the banks of the Loire

Fresh baguettes in the morning from the local Bolangerie saw us right for the brunch at 11:00 and our journey into the Beaujolais area of central France. We followed Snoopy the GPS to a farm that hosted motorhomers in the Beaujolais area, Domaine de Grande Ferriere.

On our way we came across this bric-a-brac store with an interesting way of attracting attention ....

A Morane Saulnier that's seen better days

Mid afternoon we arrived at the wine farm and what a lovely venue! A real farm yard surrounded by sheds and implements, very neatly stored I have to say, with views over a field and surrounding vineyards. Tasting is done in a beautiful cellar and wine sold directly to the public - the whole range from Blanc to Rose to Rouge. All expertly presented, explained and poured in the cellar by the co-vintner herself .... !

You can also choose a more animated label 

Vines trimmed in Beaujolais country

Workhorses of yesteryear

Although we stayed for one night only, this venue I can recommend highly, it is rustic in proper French countryside, it is quiet and conducive to a stay of two or three nights, whilst enjoying the fruits of the vine. The site can only take about four 'vans max, so you are not crowded out, Turkish loo's, outside seating and that cellar will ensure a good stay.

Last morning on the continent near Calais

We had an early start to the ferry port in Calais, arriving in good time for our 10:00 crossing on Wednesday 27 March 2013 back to England. Cold it certainly was, but the fry up for breakfast (full English) on the ferry was good.

We will, in order to give some reflections and thoughts, post under a separate heading on our overall experience of the past 10 months whilst travelling Europe. We have covered some 17,000km since taking delivery of Fifi le Van back in April 2012 and some overall all encompassing summary will be forthcoming. So too will our plans for 2013 ....

For the many, from all over the world, who have read and followed our Adventure, we say thank you and extend our gratitude and appreciation for the interest you have shown. Many messages were received from faraway places - South Africa, New Zealand and closer to home in the UK - from people reading and following this Blog. Thank you for that interest!