Wednesday 30 January 2013

Sicily - Castello di Donnafugata

Visiting the 'castle' of Donnafugata
 
'Donnafugata' could be translated as 'The lady who escaped' but this meaning is said to be a myth that makes a good story - as is often the case. Its history is complicated (not that I fully understand it) and there seems to be some Arabic name involvement, so for the sake of simplicity I will stick to the 'good story'. The story goes that the widowed Queen Bianca of King Martin l, who was Regent of Sicily circa 1410, was kept prisoner in the castle by Count Cabrera because he (Count Cabrera) needed her to marry him in order for him to become the new King. She refused because Cabrera was known as an executioner in Sicily and she eventually made good her escape.
 
Castello di Donnafugata is at best a wealthy nobleman's home (it is not a castle in the true meaning of the word) which saw its heyday in the early 20th Century under the auspices of Baron Corrado Arezzo. Its construction goes back to the 14th Century, but most of its history prior to the 18th Century is lost and therefor is open to speculation. It fell into disrepair after WW2 until its take over by the town council of Ragusa in 1982, when the slow process of restoration was started. It is situated on high ground with views over the Mediterranean and is bordered by 8 hectares of parkland. The building has a beautiful Neo-Gothic facade which is the dominant feature as you walk towards it.
 
Neo-Gothic facade

Former staff quarters

Exiting Donnafugata

Scale model


Staircase to the first floor

Stone figurine on staircase

Inner courtyard and entrance to the house

As with many buildings of historical significance photography is not permitted once inside and the same applied here once the private rooms are entered. The decor and furnishings are not nearly as opulent as for example those of English stately homes, but it has that Italian style and expression which no-one else can replicate. Some artifacts have been lost during the tumult of the war years and the unsettled period thereafter but it is still a joy to visit - low season with no crowds!

In the carpark ....

Sunday 27 January 2013

Sicily - Hailstorm at Punta Braccetto

Punta Braccetto is almost on a par with the southern most point of Sicily, and is actually further south than the northern most point of Tunisia on the African continent. The island of Malta is only 90 minutes by ferry from Pozzallo, which is some 20 miles east of where we are on Punta Braccetto.
So let's start with weather since our arrival, which has been mainly good, but it has also given us some very windy and rainy days! There was also the one night when a hailstorm passed overhead damaging some motorhomes, thankfully not ours.
However, let it be said, on some days we still don shorts and sandals, although you mostly need a thin fleece or jumper to keep warm. We can and do still sit outside on reclining chairs whenever the sun is out and temperatures rise to 15+ Celsius over the midday hours.
The campsite stretches from the road entrance all the way to the sea and can accommodate about 30 motorhomes. Large pitches with a choice of sea views or more secluded areas are on offer, each 'van has its own toilet in an ablution area near your pitch. There are numerous showers and basins with good hot water all over the site, as well as dish and clothes washing facilities. Wi-fi coverage is good and all facilities are serviced twice weekly. There is a weekly minibus shuttle to a large fresh produce, meat and fish market in nearby Vittoria. Bread van visits every morning with a selection of breads, buns and pastries.

By day ....

.... by night.

Punta Braccetto viewed from our beach

Make no mistake, as mentioned above we did have one night of severe weather with torrential rain, lightning, thunder and then that deathly silence which means only one thing - hail. It hammered down like there was no tomorrow .... and the morrow revealed several hail damaged motorhomes, cracked skylights and dented body work. We were lucky and escaped damage ....

Signs of trouble

The not-so-placid Med

A carpet of hailstones ....

.... some the size of golf balls.

Even the beach was a washout

Two days later things had settled down again, some made emergency repairs to their 'vans using duct tape and a wry smile mixed with fortitude and resilience - no one packed up and went home. Home meant snow, ice and a minus degrees temperature all over northern Europe and the UK. Rainy weather, with some sunny breaks, has been with us for the past few days but if the forecast is anything to go by sunny weather is back soon.

The weather gave some good photo opportunities

Thursday 24 January 2013

Sergeant Salvatore D' Acquisto

We have travelled through Italy and Sicily for the past few months, stopped at various historical sights pertaining to WW2, only to find that very little mention is made of Italy's participation in that war. We came across this exception in the central piazza in Vittoria, Sicily, although upon first examination of the marble plaque, it is not at all obvious as to who the man is. No mention is made of the Second World War. What drew my attention is the inscription 'Military Medal for Valour'.
 
 
Deputy Sergeant Salvatore D' Acquisto (1920-1943)
Military Medal for Valour - Gold
Italian Carabinieri

Below an edited extraction from an article in the Catholic Herald:-

Modern Italy has few war heroes. One soldier from the WW2 period (1939-1945) is however honoured; he has squares, schools and streets named after him. He is an NCO named Salvo D’Aquisto, who died aged 22. He has a simple tomb in Santa Chiara, the most beautiful church, in his native Naples, and in Italy they are waiting for him to be canonised; when that happens Salvo D’Acquisto will be the first 'soldier saint' of the Second World War.

He was the eldest of eight children: three died in infancy, one in childhood; the youngest brother is still alive and living in Naples, and is now in his late seventies. The entire family, including a formidable grandmother, all lived in one large room in the Vomero quarter.
They were not particularly poor by the standards of the time. Their father worked in a chemical factory. Salvo himself was a studious child, even bookish, but still left school aged 14, as working-class boys did in those days.

At 18, the minimum age, having done a few jobs in the meantime, he enrolled in the Carabinieri, the oldest regiment in the Italian Army, which carries out the functions of a police force. Archbishop Giovanni Marra, Italy’s military bishop, describes Salvo as tall, athletic and with limpid eyes, "a true son of Southern Italy", and so he was in more than just looks. No less than four of his immediate male relatives had enrolled in the Carabinieri a sure sign then that there were few alternative careers available for a talented but poor Neapolitan. He spent 18 months in North Africa on active service; he was recalled, promoted to NCO, and had his last posting in a little village north of Rome.
But these are only facts; one gazes at photographs, reads his letters home, and speaks to his brother. From these pieces a mosaic emerges of the life of the man who now lies in Santa Chiara. “So quiet you would hardly think he was Neapolitan,” a schoolmaster of Salvo says.
One sees the young soldier paddling in the Mediterranean, in grainy black and white; or wearing a pith helmet in Libya, smiling. “You are just the type of Neapolitan girl that I have always had in my heart and so much prized,” he writes to his madrina di guerra, a young lady called Maria, who, as was the custom, had sent him her photograph, along with a picture of the Sacred Heart, to bolster his morale. “I’ll keep them both next to my heart,” he tells her. A typical son of the Italian South.
But there is more than that: his letters to his parents and to his madrina di guerra have a peculiar quality about them. No one could write them today. In seeking the man who lies in Santa Chiara one enters a lost world of purity and innocence.

When Italy changed sides in September 1943, Salvo was at his post at Torrimpietra, north of Rome.
His commanding officer had been called to Rome that day, and Salvo was thus, at the age of 22, the senior representative of the Italian State police (Carabinieri) in Torrimpietra. At 08:00 that morning a party of Germans arrived, wearing the uniform of the dreaded SS. Salvo, ever polite, went to greet them, holding out a hand only to be struck by a rifle and taken away without even time to put on his jacket. What had happened was this; the day before, the SS, in occupying a medieval tower at nearby Palidoro had caused an explosion. One German was dead, two wounded, and sabotage suspected.
Despite the fact that the explosion was accidental, the commander of the SS had decided on reprisals. Twenty two local men had been rounded up and were going to be shot unless Salvo could point out the person responsible for the supposed crime.

It was to be a long day. Those arrested were ordered to dig a trench, some of them with their bare hands. The process of digging their own mass grave reduced many of them to tears. Only Salvo kept calm and tried to reason with the SS. In vain. It was only at 5pm that he at last succeeded in persuading the SS to let their prisoners go. One of the prisoners stayed to see the outcome, while the others fled in gratitude. He was a 17-year-old boy, and the sole witness of Salvo’s death at the hands of the SS firing squad. For Salvo had convinced the Germans that he was responsible for the imaginary crime, in so doing saving the lives of 22 countrymen. “You live once, you die once,” he had told the boy while they had been digging the trench that afternoon.
A story of generosity, bravery and Christian charity. Here is one Italian who did not run away; one man who, in the sorry history of the war, did something to save fellow Italians from an unjust execution.

Credits to the Catholic Herald

http://www.catholicherald.co.uk/commentandblogs/2012/07/26/the-incredible-sacrifice-of-salvo-daquisto/

Monday 21 January 2013

Sicily - Military Cemeteries

Part of my stopover in Catania entailed visiting two cemeteries of two opposing sides in the Sicilian Campaign of WW2 - the British War Cemetery and the Deutscher Soldaten Friedhof (German Soldiers' Cemetery) both on the outskirts of Catania.
This campaign was also a major test and training ground for the ability of the Allies (British and American forces) to work and operate together. Lessons learnt here were all applied to the D-Day Normandy landings of June 1944.
The Sicilian campaign also highlighted the rivalry between two well known commanders of WW2, General Sir Bernard Montgomery (Monty) of the British and Lt Gen George Patton (Old Blood and Guts) of the Americans. Below an example of this rivalry:-

"On the morning of 17 August 1943, elements of the US 7th Army entered Messina, just hours after the last Axis (German and Italian) troops had boarded ship for Italy. The enemy had escaped, but Patton quickly brought reinforcements into the port, in the words of 3d Division assistant commander Brig. Gen. William Eagles, "to see that the British did not capture the city from us after we had taken it." Shortly after Patton accepted the city's surrender, a column of British vehicles slowly wound its way through Messina's crooked streets. Spotting General Patton, the commander of the British column walked over and offered his hand in congratulations. Patton had won his race".

http://www.history.army.mil/brochures/72-16/72-16.htm

Catania British Cemetery 1939-1945

Catania British Cemetery 1939-1945
2117 commemorated here

Mt Etna in the background

An unknown bonus of this visit was that the runway of Catania airport was next to the cemetery, which meant that you had a wonderful view of aircraft coming and going.

  
A passenger plane coming in to land

This successful campaign by the Allies also resulted in a significant setback for the Germans in that it was a humiliation for Mussolini and contributed to the switching of sides by the Italians in 1943. The campaign led to serious loss of life on all sides, as is reflected in casualty numbers in the cemeteries.

German Soldiers' Cemetery Catania 1939-1945 

German Soldiers' Cemetery Catania
4561 commemorated here

Dedicated to the Unknown soldier

The cemetery resembles a roofless building of five chambers, four of them commemorating the fallen in the four major centres of battle and the fifth to the Unknown soldier. It continues the theme whereby German WW2 cemeteries each have a unique way in which they honour their fallen.

Saturday 19 January 2013

Sicily - Catania

Catania is Sicily's second city after its capitol of Palermo. We visited it once in mid December with two fellow Brits whom were also based at Camper Lagani in Giardini. The city I found to be pleasant from an architectural point of view, with many buildings reflecting a typically ornate Italian look to them - well we are in Sicily I suppose.
It has a large well stocked fish market with stalls and tables laden with prawns, whole fish, shell fish, eels and squid and some others I did not know. It is busy and you need to know what you want and how to tell your supplier in Italian what you want .... we were somewhat awestruck.
There is also a fresh meat market, same thing of hustle and bustle with vendors shouting prices and bargains, but here we were more on home ground recognising some good lamb and summarily bought 1kg of 'potjiekos' (stewing lamb) cuts from one guy. Undeterred we also bought sausage, not quite boerewors, but the closest thing I had seen in a long time. Trouble is they tend to put too much pork into the stuffing, and sometimes a salty style pork which bedevils the taste.

Bellini theatre
 
Below are two pictures of the fish market in Catania, close to the centre of town. Now this is what I would call a proper 'old style' fish market, it is very fresh and there is plenty of it, it is hustle and bustle and you can haggle, it is wet and fishy underfoot on cobble stones and no place for ladies with new Miu-Miu sandals. Luckily we had old trainers on so blended in with those around us.
 
Fish market
 
Fish market
 
For a change of smells and surroundings we found our way to the shopping high street of Catania, and it did not disappoint. The usual well known brands are all there with some lovely arcades bringing a blend of fashion and cafes together. Nothing like Bond Street in London, but you can slosh out the dosh if you like.

Fashion
 
Lupitt shopping arcade
 
Near the shopping high street  you will find the stalls and trestle tables with hawkers selling all and anything that is bargain basement, factory reject, unwanted surplus stocks, and a goodly amount of what looked like worn second hand tracksuit tops and bottoms from north Africa. The picture below shows a microcosm of life in this city; the blend of aforementioned clothes stalls and residential flats co-existing side by side. Washing hang from the windows, TV aerials everywhere, trestle tables with tracksuits and caps and milling hordes of shoppers - I think you need to have been born here to survive it all.
 
A very Sicilian neighbourhood
 
Sunrise from Jonio's camperstop

 Our camperstop in Catania was Jonio's which is right on the lava cliffs facing the sea. A good campsite if the city is to be visited, with bus stop across the road and other shopping amenities nearby. It has wonderful views across the Straits of Messina if you can secure one of the front row pitches. You can also walk the 5km into town along the seafront which takes about 45 minutes at a fair pace, which is what we did. The views, the passing parade of other joggers and walkers, the hooting and honking of Italian drivers, all lend a wonderfully Italian atmosphere. Remember a sense of humour helps.
 
Fishing / recreation harbour with Mt Etna in the background
 
View to Jonio's camperstop
 
Fishing boat moorings
 
Catania yacht harbour
 
We stopped on the way back at a clean small pavement cafe / kiosk near the main train and bus station, ordered two coffees and two bottles of water, and do you know what, it was one of the best freshly made strong Italian espressos we had come across. The owner was chatting away to a mate of his over a Moretti beer, the service was slick and friendly and it all came to less than 5 Euros. We had found a little bit of the real Sicily!

Saturday 12 January 2013

Sicily - Giardini Naxos(2)

For the second time on our travels through Europe we stayed on a dedicated Motorhome site in excess of one month! Kudos to Salvino of Camper Lagani in Giardini for managing this site in a manner whereby it is a pleasure to stay longer than the norm. The fact that we had a lovely pitch with a large paved patio outside our door, ensuring privacy and space, added hugely to staying all of 41 days.
The town of Giardini and its amenities such as cafes, restaurants and long promenade along the seafront also makes for a pleasant destination. The sea can also be enjoyed a short 200 yard walk from the camperstop to where the ancient Naxos used to be, now a quiet part of the coast. Good public transport to the nearby hilltop town of Taormina and the city of Catania further south makes for variation and choice. The fact that our immediate surrounds were so pleasant meant that we often spent the days just walking around our immediate neighbourhood, enjoying the sun on the virtually deserted Naxos beach (low season plus point) or having the odd Cappuccino at a seafront cafe.

Giardini-Naxos is a vibrant - in styles, colours and life - destination bringing something for everyone that cares to visit. I can truly say that both Joan and I enjoyed our stay here! We could hardly have wanted a better place to spend the Festive Season at.

Taormina on the hill beyond Giardini bay 

Cafe on the promenade
 
Zeus
 
Mid town greenery 

Mt Etna from where the ancient Greek colony of Naxos used to be
 
Downtown Giardini
 
Street art in downtown Giardini
 
Below is a bust of Guiseppe Garibaldi commemorating his efforts and success in unifying what is today known as Italy. He and his "1,000 red shirts" crossed the Straits of Messina in 1860 in two boats to land on mainland Italy from where he started his march on Rome and the meeting with Victor Emmanuel II, later King of a united Italy.
 
Guiseppe Garibaldi
 
Memorial to Merchant seaman near the port
 
On the Naxos beach
 
Naxos beach with Mt Etna
 
Medicine for the soul
 
We left Camper Lagani on Monday 7 January and headed for the city of Catania, Sicily's second city, for no other reason than the fact that Marius wanted to pursue some of his history interests - in this case WW2 military cemeteries. Yes, again ....
 
To be continued.

Friday 11 January 2013

Sicily - Taormina

The hill top town of Taormina is not to be given a miss whenever you are visiting the east coast of Sicily. Situated above Giardini with splendid views of the bay below, it has high street shopping second to none, a plethora of cafes and eateries to suit all comers, jewellers, hairdressing salons and small boutique style outlets to keep you looking and walking and stopping all day long. It has beautiful architecture in places, small piazzas and alleyways with hidden little gems waiting to be discovered. Don't just walk on the main thoroughfare, veer off and just follow instinct, you cannot get lost because you are on a hill top. Now how's that for a sales pitch?!
One more thing - it is Sicily's most visited area, together with Giardini - come and see it!

Giardini bay from the road leading to Taormina - Etna in the background
 
Ditto the above
 
We took the bus from our camperstop for the 20 minute ride to the terminus at Taormina, a scenic ride along the Giardini promenade following the beach, up the hill until you reach the terminus. Another 10 minute walk gets you to the main all pedestrian thoroughfare. My first stop was at the Barber, old school men's salon smelling of Old Spice aftershave and leather seats. I had a 5 minute wait and then sat down to an easy going 30 minute haircut with people passing by and some greeting the barber with a quick 'Ciao Guiseppe'. Even a Nun from a local convent came in and said hello to us proffering a blessing .... ! We are in Sicily!
 
Main pedestrian thoroughfare
 
Fruit and plants at an alimentari (general dealer)
 
Residential alleyway
 
North African influence
 
Passage to an art studio
 
Terrace of the 5* Metropole Hotel - Mt Etna in the distance
 
Sunny piazza with a view!
 
Decorative balcony
 
Sunny cafes and eateries
 
Excavations with a tiny cafe at the top
 
Avenues and alleyways, uncrowded in low season
 
Enjoying a pizza with some local gals - and a cool Moretti beer
 
Our visit was uncrowded and leisurely over some five hours with a midday espresso on a lovely piazza overlooking the sea below, walking the alleyways and narrow streets as the whim took us, ending up at a tucked away restaurant / pizzeria frequented by locals with a sunny terrace. Very Italian and very local with very professional service. How's that for ending the day!