Bulgaria - The Black Sea

After more than two months at Camping Veliko Tarnovo fulfilling the roles of resident part time Camp Wardens, it was decided that a visit to the Black Sea coast of Bulgaria should be made. We had 10 days on hand, stocked and packed Fifi the motorhome, and set off on Thursday 25 July in an easterly direction. We were advised by the locals to follow the road through Elena, Kotel and Sliven and then the motorway to the Black Sea coast at Burgas and further south.
Always a good idea to take local advice, the road from Elena to Sliven was through beautiful forests and countryside, tree lined verges and in places thick woodland with that quietness and solitude found only in areas of natural beauty. It certainly gave us a whole new perspective on rural Bulgaria.

Woodland near Sliven

We skirted round the port city of Burgas and followed the coast road south looking for signs pointing to campsites. Just before Tsarevo there was a sign that said Camping South and we duly swung Fifi down the narrow road. There is always some nervous anticipation when approaching a new site, will you like it, will it be packed out, will you be stuck with noisy neighbours?

Fifi the motorhome on her pitch

Most campsites in Europe have demarcated spaces within which each motorhome / caravan / tent must pitch, but here in Bulgaria thus far that does not seem to be the case. You arrive and select your own space which is fine, but it can also result in over crowding - we have been fortunate. Perhaps its because we're at the back, which is how we chose it, the nearer the sea the more crowded it becomes.
The ablution / shower block is basic but I used it (turkish style toilet and all) but Joan used the facilities of the motorhome, the hotel complex has a small well stocked shop with basic foodstuffs, cool drinks and chilled beer. We stayed for 6 nights - says it all.

And WiFi reception in the 'van from our omni-directional antenna, courtesy of Motorhome WiFi.

Our two beaches and the campsite in the background

Soft sand, very clean and safe - a real joy!

Enjoyable for all 

Adjacent hotel and private beach

Some have private perches

Some have private get-togethers

Sea Holly (Eryngium martinum)

Elegant beach bars 

We were pleasantly surprised by the orderliness and well behaved crowds of mainly Bulgarians. There was no loud music, no yobbish (unruly) behaviour, no abuse of alcohol, it seemed as if everybody was out to have a good time without spoiling it for anyone else.

Topless bathing was no problem - many females did - and some people would discreetly remove all clothing to ensure an all over tan .... ! The liberal beach culture coupled with respect for others, is something these two beaches can be proud of - the Hotel Sea Horse and adjacent beaches at Lozenets south of Burgas.

Bulgaria - Tsarevets and Veliko Tarnovo (2)

Spending the summer of 2013 just 10 miles east of Veliko Tarnovo (VT) it was a certainty that we would visit the city again, after the first visit almost a month ago. The focus this time round was TSAREVETS, the remains of a medieval fortress atop a hill on the outskirts of the city. It served as the stronghold for royalty and patriarchs from 1186-1393 during the time of the Second Bulgarian Empire.
For a time Bulgaria was the dominant power in the Balkans. However, various invasions and attacks from its neighbours, coupled to internal strife, led to its demise until fully conquered by the Ottoman Turks in the late 14th Century. The Ottoman Turks ruled over Bulgaria for the next 500 years.
Some ruins remain of Tsaravets and some restoration have taken place to give the visitor an idea of what went where. Entrance is 5 Leva (£2) per person and the visit well worth the expense. As per the previous visit, we took a taxi from our campsite to VT, getting off at the roadway to Tsarevets. It was 10:30 and we had the day ahead of us.

Entrance to Tsarevets

Time span

Going through the draw bridge ....

.... you come across the major fortified position on the roadway.

The fortified position is consistent with most medieval strongholds in that it guards and protects the main entrance into the fortress. Parapets from up high gave a commanding view of all and anyone approaching the citadel.

A cleverly animated and choreographed 10 minute show tells you of life in the fortress, all operated by the fellow on the right, in a language of your choice.

Animated show

Two mock ups of weapons used in defence are displayed:-

Fortified positions are dotted around the high thick stone walls, some made accessible for defenders by walkways beneath the parapets:-

At night a choice of two shows gives you an insight into life and times pertaining to Tsarevets. One is held inside the fortress and the other is the Sound and Light Show, which was featured on an earlier post in this Blog - see the index.

View over the seating area where the night time indoor show is done

Batteries of high intensity lights are used to light up the fortress at night

There are cafes, curio stalls and entry into the small cathedral on top of the hill to keep you occupied and busy for two hours or more. A good walk around on cobbled pathways with some uphill bits will make you appreciate a good lunch stop afterwards, after another bit of walking to find your eatery, then sitting down to a cool drink of the malt, hops and barley variety. That's why we travel, to see and look and sit down discussing the vagaries of mankind.

View across Veliko Tarnovo from Tsarevets

We came across these drawings showing dress costumes of bygone times, as we exited and walked into town. Beautifully done.

Making our way to the centre of town we went through a less fashionable part, small as it was, but what struck me was the usual symbiotic relationship between dilapidated buildings and wall art, graffiti if you like. No matter where in the world you go, the two seem to go together.

Broken windows, but ....

.... freedom says the writing

More broken windows ....

.... and ....

Bulgaria - Fellow travellers Rick & Kathy

Rick and Kathy from the USA are probably as 'travelled' as they come. They have lived full time 'on the road' since 2001 - not many can say that. They have travelled to 50+ countries all over the world and they're not done yet. We thoroughly enjoyed their gracious company during their three week stay at Camping Veliko Tarnovo in Bulgaria.

Rick & Kathy

They started off way back on a Honda Goldwing, changed to an American style motorhome and eventually to TIGER their current V8 powered 4x4 which they say is "far more capable than what we are capable of". They are truly followers of "the road less travelled".

Below is the link to their comprehensive and most informative website:-

http://www.travelin-tortuga.com/

TIGER parked in the Bulgarian countryside

"Our world, with no checklists, no schedules, one day at a time". 

Website of Rick & Kathy.

Bulgaria - Life at the campsite

We have completed the first third (6 weeks) of our sojourn here at Camping Veliko Tarnovo (CVT) as Camp Wardens. It has exposed us to the workings and behind the scenes goings-on of  life on a campsite, not the whole hog, but certainly to many intricacies and various component parts of what day to day working life entails. Although we are on duty for only 24 hours over a three and a half day period, you are never completely detached from what goes on around you. It comes with the territory, as the saying goes ....

What brought back happy memories from years gone by was the scene below, showing a combine harvester at work. The grains have ripened here in Bulgaria and for a few days it was all activity on the fields surrounding our campsite. It was reminiscent of the grain being gathered in the Western Cape province of South Africa, a scene I often saw during harvest time.

Combine harvester at work

Off loading onto the waiting tractor-trailer

The monthly car boot sale also took place at CVT at the end of June. The weather was heavily overcast after rain over the preceding days, which affected attendance numbers of both vendors and visitors, but hey, there is no such thing as a quiet car boot sale. It is an ideal place for British expats now living in Bulgaria meet up with each other and whereby the locals are introduced to this 'car boot thing'. I still remember to this day the description given to me by a fine gentleman in Lincolnshire, England, that this is a way for people to recycle their rubbish. However, I also saw freshly baked raisin bread, and bought one too!

Early arrival of sellers

All sorts for sale

We also had our first arrival of the overlander fraternity, this group on a six month journey from London to Sydney, overlanding from London to Singapore. They tent half the time and youth hostel / guest house the rest, all in for £6,500 Sterling excluding pocket money, personals and booze.

MADVENTURE

Looking at the locals

Soon the tents sprang up

Hardly had the tents been erected, when a b-line was made for the pool and ablution block in equal measure by the 40 odd newly arrived. We couldn't figure out whether it was coolness or cleanliness that took priority, but it was certainly water they were after. The awning on the veranda with its Tuborg beer signage was the next stop with the emphasis now on liquids of another kind .... ! Judging by the amount and regularity of the orders they must have been on the water waggon since leaving London 10 days earlier. Rum and coke was being quaffed before the sun had even started to set. Some tried their best to also see the sun rise again. Bloody nora! (Cockney). However, in fairness, they were a well behaved crowd.
There was also the opportunity to try your hand at archery - yes the bow and arrow activity. Nothing too strenuous for those suffering hangovers and short nights - £4 for 30 minutes.

Posture and pose ....

.... as you aim 

Result out of 12 arrows; 1 lost, 6 on target and the balance wide of the target but not lost. So you think its easy, have you tried it? Not for nothing is it an Olympic sport!

Summer!

Bulgaria - former capital Veliko Tarnovo (1)

We paid an orientation visit to Veliko Tarnovo (VT) the former capital of Bulgaria, also referred to as the City of Tsars by locals. It has a long and complicated history, as is the case with all of Bulgaria and much of the greater Balkan region for that matter. The region has seen wars and dominance by foreign powers and empires which to this day still causes friction and upheaval - reference Serbia and Kosovo.
Don't forget WW1 erupted in 1914 because of an assassination in Sarajevo the capital of latter day Bosnia Herzegovina, which was part of Tito's Yugoslavia, within the greater Balkan region.

We were taken by Dimitar in his yellow cab to VT and he suggested dropping us in the centre at the Tourist Office, also from where he would later pick us up. The Tourist Office supplied us with a map and we wandered off towards the Old Town. Across the road from this office was a very imposing monument, shown on the map as Maika Bulgaria (Mother Bulgaria). It commemorates the fallen from Bulgaria in four conflicts - Russian / Turkish War, two regional Balkan Wars and WW1.

Maika Bulgaria

Bulgaria entered WW1 on the side of the Central Powers (Germany) and fought with distinction on the Macedonian (Balkan) Front against the British, blunting their attack near Doiran in 1917. However with the imminent collapse of Germany in 1918, Bulgaria capitulated and was the first to sign an Armistice.

Commemorating the fallen from WW1

We carried on walking towards the Old Town, now dominated by small shops and outlets selling arts and crafts from what appears to be a thriving 'Artisan quarter' within VT. The main street is for pedestrians only so makes for a safe and enjoyable visit. It is clean and colourful and has various cafes and eateries in this visitor friendly part of Veliko Tarnovo - well recommended!

We stopped for lunch at Restaurant Ethno with a wonderful view over the Yantra river, which flows into the Danube in northern Bulgaria near the Romanian border. Service was good and the food even better, quiet, plush and relaxed ambiance, on a weekday. Spent a wonderful two hours there.

Restaurant Ethno

View over the Yantra river

The Asen's monument

The Asen's monument commemorates the establishment of the Second Bulgarian Empire under the Asen Dynasty from the 12th to the 13th Centuries, with Veliko Tarnovo as capital. The Asen's ruled over a prosperous and militarily strong Bulgaria which declined after their demise and with the ascendancy of the Turkish Ottoman Empire. The Ottoman Turks ruled supreme in Bulgaria for the next almost 500 years.

Homes overlooking the Yantra river from the hills of Veliko Tarnovo

There is more to see in this (small) city and a second visit will be made soon.