Greece - Christmas 2013

Travelling from Sparti to Kalamata takes you across a mountain pass second to none. It has hairpin bends and switchbacks, it has rock overhangs with height restrictions and in places has space for a single vehicle travelling in one direction only. There are regular rockfalls judging by debris on the surface, but scenically it is terrific and more so in its winter colours of yellow, orange and brown.

Kalamata this time round, again, were for the purposes of laundry and giving the leisure batteries a full charge from the plug-in facilities at the marina. Then off again the next day making for Agios Nikolaos and Karavostasi (Faros Taverna) where we spent Christmas 2013.

Below Agios Nikolaos ....

.... from the harbour wall at dusk ....

.... from our motorhome ....

 

.... from outside our door at dawn.

We have found the southern Peloponnese to be the area which we've enjoyed most, thus far, when looking at the Peloponnese as a whole.

Faros Taverna, Karavostasi (near Areopolis) Peloponnesos region, southern Greece

Christmas 2013

You always know when something is going to be good, this was one of those evenings, Christmas Day 25 December 2013 at Faros Taverna, early evening onwards ....
Good food, good wine and good company, an evening to be long remembered, hosted by a wonderful Greek couple in their own Taverna on the shores of Limeni bay in southern Greece. Thank you Peter!

Outside area Faros Taverna

Squid

A warm welcome

Music by Anna, Raphael and the Boss

The taverna was full with a veritable international clientele of Greeks, Dutch, Austrians, French and British which was just wonderful. We ate, drank, had sing-songs, live music and that joyous spirit which comes with Christmas - a truly eclectic mix of people and the best of European togetherness.

Greece - Monemvasia (2)

This island village (it is reached by a bridge) of Monemvasia is the epitome of living a detached lifestyle. You cannot even see the nearest next place of habitation on mainland Greece, it faces the Aegean to the east and you live here as if having turned your back on the rest of the world. It is populated by less than 1,000 people in summer and that figure drops substantially in winter. We saw very few 'residents' and those we did see were shop and taverna owners commuting in from the mainland.
The entire village is surrounded by a 10 foot high stone wall, it clings to the rock face for all it's worth and there are no vehicles inside the wall. There are no streets, only alleyways, some having room for only one person at a time walking along it. If you are claustrophobic this place will either cure or kill you. There is limited parking outside the arched gateway and you are better off owning a scooter or commuting by bus, everything is carried by hand into the village. The village in olden days consisted of an upper and lower part, the upper part on top of the rock is no more, except for the remains of two churches, of which the island had many in its heyday.

 

Views over the 'lower' town

The climb to the top is steep on cobbled paving and stone steps, but the view just so rewarding across that shining Aegean Sea.

The way to the 'upper' town

 

Views from the 'upper' town

I saw no dogs but many cats, with some person feeding them resulting in unchecked breeding .... vermin control will no doubt be the excuse. There were a few tourists from the Far East staying in one of the dozen or so small hostelries looking somewhat lost and bored nibbling away on pieces of cucumber. Some shop owners prefer sitting outside in the bit of sun that reaches the alleyways during the winter months, watching us tourists with sandals and T-shirts doing window shopping.

We made our way to the stone wall at the furthest edge of town, found the opening and proceeded along a path to where it ended at what used to be a manned lighthouse, judging by the remnants of the stone buildings.

Old lighthouse

A strange place this Monemvasia, it is beautifully located on that rock, obviously has a rich and varied history, upwards of 30 churches in its day, narrow stone alleyways everywhere, tavernas and small 'hotels' crammed together, all of this clinging to the side of this rock. Good for a stroll and a day visit, but not sure whether I could stay a night or two in those cramped conditions as a tourist. As a destination for motorhomers it is wonderful due to the various parking spots and choices of views and scenery - we stayed for 10 days all over the place.

View from the connecting bridge

View back to the 'mainland'

We endured a two day storm and hunkered behind this garbage truck in the main port area, see the water being churned up in the harbour where the Coast Guard is moored. We moved from the island's open exposed parking area to the semi-protected area behind the truck, further enhanced by the motorhome that stood in front of us fending off the gale force wind - very cosy!

Howling gale in the harbour

We left Monemvasia and made for Kalamata via Sparti, where we stocked up on groceries once again, filled with LPG and stayed a night at the Kalamata marina (third time) for laundry (2 x 8kg washes) and to use their electricity plug-in points to fully charge the leisure batteries of Fifi the motorhome.

Greece - Monemvasia (1)

Our anti-clockwise tour of the Peloponnesos (Greek) Peloponnese (English) is ongoing. Winter has arrived, make no mistake, and we have had some chilly days. That's not mentioning the storms, high winds, lashing rain and what can only be described as miserable weather at times.
To be fair, most days still have sunshine and it can reach into the high teens (16 Celsius) with good strength in the sun, still much warmer than Britain which is why we are here. Snow has fallen on some mountain tops but whether it will stay I don't know, see the picture below taken near Sparti in the south.

We stocked up on food, filled with LPG (Liquid Petroleum Gas) and diesel and took the road leading to Monemvasia. LPG - many service stations have this now, and most will have it soon, the days of hauling blue and red gas cylinders around are over. Your LPG tank (cylinder) is a fixture and you fill it similar to tanking with fuel. Some stations still frown at the cylinder and one in Patras refused to fill it, but they're learning fast here in Greece.
Monemvasia at first sight looks like a miniature Gibraltar, sheer rock with a small village at the far side reached by a narrow road crossing the sea. In the old days it could be sealed off by a draw bridge as a defensive measure.

Monemvasia = 'Single entrance'

Information plaque

Hellenic Coast Guard in the bay

We parked for two nights next to the small fishing harbour which is near most tavernas, very picturesque and very Greek. The following three nights were spent on the island itself, just inside from the bridge which gave beautiful views in all directions, both day and night.

 

Parked next to the fishing harbour and various tavernas

 It is a great place for walking around, the harbour and the marina, inside the village itself both on the island and the mainland. I will submit a separate entry on the hidden built-on-the-mountain Monemvasia in our next posting.

Turtle in the harbour

Monemvasia rock

Can you wish for a better parking spot?

Some wonderful balmy days in the Grecian sun, settled and sunny weather for the next week! All of the motorhomes' occupants know each other; from L-R Swedish, British (Fifi), and two Dutch vans.

Greece - southern Peloponnese (3)

Having completed a tour around one of the three headlands of the southern Peloponnese we were back at Limeni bay near Areopoli. The weather forecast was for stormy weather, rain and strong winds, over the next day or two - and it did not disappoint! We were on good stable ground, we battened down the hatches and were ready to sit it out.

 

Sunset on the day before the storm

The sea was all churned up, the rain came bucketing down with 75mm (3 inches) over a 24 hour period. The wind according to the weather reports reached gusts of strength 7 on the Beaufort scale, near gale force. The 3.5 ton motorhome was rocked a few times, we could see the water coming down the hill behind us in little streams flooding the parking area before running into the sea. All this at night with the street lights eventually succumbing and going out because of the severe thunder and lightning.
Two German 'vans were parked up with us but their occupants had gone to Faros taverna for the evening and had not returned before the deluge. I saw them briefly whilst making their way back with waterproof jackets looking thoroughly wet and miserable. I subsequently heard that the thunder and lightning had so unnerved one of the woman delaying their return until close to midnight.

The gathering storm

Faros taverna at Karavostasi, Limeni bay.

Faros taverna pictured above, will always bring back fond memories because of the two fish platters (on two different nights) which was so wonderfully cooked and presented by owner / manager Peter. You know when you walk in, the friendly atmosphere, the warm welcome and a 'can-do' attitude when we said "bring us some good Greek food" without even looking at the menu. Four courses arrived over the next two hours, all freshly made and served with an explanation as to what it is. Washed down with the house white wine served in a carafe. Wonderful place well recommended!

Before moving on we spent two nights on the Itilo beach front, from where the above picture was taken, stocked up with basics in Areopoli 6km away on the hill and travelled the 50km to Sparti for LPG gas and a proper replenishment of groceries from Lidl's. All of 85 Euros worth! Nice Lidl's this was fully stocked with Christmas decorations - yes it's that time of year again.

Next up - oranges on the trees and snow on the mountains and ....

Near Sparti

 



Greece - southern Peloponnese (2)

We trundled further down the coast making for Limeni and Areopoli, slow going due to the twisting mountain roads and hairpin bends at times. Our first view of Limeni bay was from high up on the mountain pass before descending quickly to sea level.

Limeni bay

The weather was as you see it on the picture, no change from our 6:00am start. At the bottom of the hill we noticed a sign showing a parking area for motorhomes, we followed the road which lead past the well cared for Faros taverna to a gravelled parking area next to the sea. The settlement is known as Karavostasi.
It was to become an 'address' for quite some days due to the quietness, walking opportunities and very friendly relationship with the owner / manager of Faros Taverna. Nearby Areopoli had plenty of choice in terms of mini-markets, bakeries, fresh produce and a town with little shops to walk around in. It has a good butcher, the kind which invites you behind the counter to explain how you want your meat cut up - how's that!

Looking north from above Limeni

Along the coast path near Faros taverna, Karavostasi.

Limeni

After an initial stay of a few days at the camperstop near Faros tavern we travelled across to Gytheio which is on the opposite side of the headland and stayed a night near Vathi on the beach. Still the rainy weather could be seen around us.

Beach near Vathi at dusk

 

Again as so many times before the rugged mountainous geography of the region struck us, narrow winding mountain passes at times taking you through small hamlets. We saw the odd fisherman repairing nets, men chopping wood in preparation for winter, always a tavern with people drinking Greek style coffees. There were hidden small farms with stone walls demarcating boundaries testimony to how some still prefer a quiet lifestyle of solitude - why not. Not for me though.

From the mountain pass near Kotronas

The mountain road swung north again after rounding the tip of the Tainaro headland, the sun was out and the outside temperature climbed to 19C. We turned off at the signpost to Gerolimenas to have a look around and with a view to staying a night or two - we stayed two. Tucked into the fold of mountains with a narrow bay leading into the Med beyond it had the feel of a film set for a pirate movie. Small harbour with most boats stored for winter, various tavernas and small hotels and a small resident population.

Beach and central square Gerolimenas

On the rocks in Gerolimenas

View from the beautiful Kyrimai Hotel, Gerolimenas.

 

Back street

Autumn crocuses

All lit up at night, as seen from Fifi.

 

A really lovely village with possible walks around the area and of course what will be a lively summer venue when it's full of visitors. Across the street from the camperstop the owner / manager of the hotel invited us in and gave us the key to the Wi-Fi connection. We also met Richard and Belinda from Birmingham, touring the Peloponnese in their motorhome and shared stories over a drink. We walked all over town as well as up the mountain road for an all round view of more mountains and more rocks, no shortage of building stones here.