Having a swim
Getting ready for a braai (bbq)
Croatian sunset over the Adriatic
Before you ask, the two specks on the upper part of the above photo are two helicopters, not dust spots on the camera lens. The sunsets are as dramatic as can be seen anywhere, and that includes Africa.
We left Zagreb for the Croatian coastline and made a beeline for Senj which seemed the nearest in terms of distance. It was, but only after descending a mountain pass using second and third gear at best. To celebrate this first sight of the sea for many weeks, in full sun I have to say, Joan suggested that we have a seafood platter at the little eatery next to the camperstop. Freshly made and served in style at £42.00 for two including wine and service, it was thoroughly enjoyed!
Small fishing harbour in Senj
Dusk over the camperstop area in Senj
I went for a swim the next morning and we had a look around the town and adjacent yacht harbour. This was my first good look at Balkan building styles and architecture and there is a definite appeal to it. Maybe because it is less planned and not over regulated by red tape and by-laws as we know them in the 'developed' world. One other thing that struck me, again, was the laid back cafe culture of the continent. That mix of easy going over a long meal and a few drinks, no rowdiness or loutish behaviour, no overt drunkenness and the associated problems .... not seen yet anyway.
'Korner Bar' - literally.
The inner town had various little eateries, cafes and bars giving it a Mediterranean feel, which it is being on the Adriatic.
After a stay of two nights we travelled further south from Senj towards Zadar along the coast road. Much slower going because of the winding road and sheer drops at times on the seaward side, it also struck us how arid and sparsely vegetated the coastline was in areas. Rocky and stony ground and of course only pebbled beaches, but a most inviting sea which I soon had another swim in! Right there next to the road.
We found, and stayed for two nights, a camperstop right next to the beach with the water 10 paces from our doorstep. Luxury I tell you!
Fifi centre right
I know .... I know
We had really started on the sun, sea and bbq routine by now. A butcher was found in town as well as a small supermarket selling salad ingredients, so the outdoor dining experience started taking off. The Weber started working overtime - well almost. Neither do we have that British look (no tan) anymore, we have started tanning!
We left Autocamp Pisak in Seline, near Zadar, and started the journey down the coast direction Split. Just outside Zadar after 10 miles of travel we came across a large new shopping mall, showcasing a Spar International sign. In we went into a wonderfully well stocked supermarket and did a proper shop coming to 400 Kuna, about £45.00. Laden down with groceries and grog we continued about 30 miles down the road and came across a sign saying Autocamp Romantica near Drage. This proved to be a mile down a dirt road from whence a man appeared, frantically waving me down. He said he had just the right spot for us and that we need not bother checking out any of the other three camperstops nearby. He showed me around the virtually empty terraced spaces and after we had agreed a tariff, I chose a spot near the water's edge. Soon after we were swimming and late afternoon the Weber was readied for the bbq. Bliss! We also travelled in to Biograd na Moru, the nearest town, for a look around. This is where the 2011 European HOG rally was held, which we gave a miss because of hotel booking problems. I don't think we missed much.
The stay at Camp Romantica was enjoyable to the extent that we remained for four nights. The views over the Adriatic and the Croatian coastline will be long cherished, so too the swims and sunsets. Friendly hosting family and very laid back life style and campsite atmosphere, all of which placed the cherry on the cake of our visit to Croatia. We left in glorious sunshine and took the road back north towards Slovenia and Italy, Italy being the next country. We crossed the Velebit mountains after joining the motorway at Biograd n M and stopped on the Mali Allan pass for a last look at the coastline.
Thank you Croatia for your hospitality and your kindness, we thoroughly enjoyed the visit and if ever we are near the Balkan again, a repeat visit is assured!
Mali Allan peak 1044m
Looking west towards Zadar
The journey to the Slovenian border via Rijeka using what appeared to be a recently built motorway (toll road) took us 7 hours including stops and the hefty 215 Kuna (£24.00) toll fee at the end of the about 300 km length we used. Blimey, that took us by surprise!
We had the choice of staying overnight near Rijeka in Croatia, but decided to be bold and make for Italy, not far at about 50 odd miles using country roads through Slovenia .... 50 miles and almost four hours later ....
Now that is a whole new story, to be covered in the next post.
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