Italy - Arrival and Marano Lagunare

Welcome to Italy - or not?!

The thunder, the lightning, sheets of rain, a howling wind buffeting the van - all in pitch darkness on a single lane motorway under construction. A thunderstorm of the likes I've never experienced from behind a steering wheel.

First things first, we left Croatia just north of Rijeka and entered Slovenia hoping to be in Italy within two hours, parked for the night. Slovenia has a very small coastline and we assumed taking the back roads across it into Italy would be a cinch. We purposely avoided motorways as we did not want to pay the 15 Euro vignette fee. The road was winding and twisting and it was second and third gear in places. In the distance we could see dark skies and slivers of lightning at times - a foreboding.
We entered Italy at Monfalcone north of Trieste - no border checks as Slovenia is in the EU - when the rain started.
It was dark already but we followed the directions of Snoopy the GPS / SatNav to a free camperstop in Monfalcone. The rain, thunder, lightning and wind steadily increased as we went until it caused Snoopy to go on the blink. This meant wrong turnings and wrong directions at times, only to recalculate, and as soon as we were back on track the blinking started again. We found ourselves on a half constructed motorway with no lights and one lane traffic when sheets of rain and buffeting winds almost brought travel to a halt. Cars were trying to U-turn and many others were obviously lost. Road signs and other debris were being tossed on the ground making even normal navigation impossible. We eventually exited the motorway and stopped in a quiet side road to take stock. Around us were broken branches, signs, posters and debris of all sorts. We sat it out and re-programmed Snoopy and eventually reached the camperstop at 21:00. It took us four hours to cover the last 50 miles!

We were off early the next morning and stopped for breakfast, cereals and fruit, whilst on our way to Marano Lagunare. This I've heard to be a typical little fishing town with large yacht harbour, a very Italian introduction to Italy.

Fishing boats at Marano Lagunare

Homes near the waterfront

Piazza in town centre

And a lovely Italian introduction to Italy it was! It was also very clear to me early on in my walkabout that I looked a stranger, my shorts and sandals with camera round the neck made me stand out. It definitely attracted the odd stare in a town where most people knew each other and where greetings were passed to and fro as folk crossed the main piazza.
However, it was a new internet connection, a stick or dongle from Vodafone that I needed urgently. I had to rely on wi-fi (Wlan) signal since leaving Germany and this caused delays to regular updates of the Blog. It was decided that a large town or city should be visited to establish a new connection and looking at the map Treviso was chosen.
What a find! There was a Vodafone shop 200m from the camperstop, which was next to the Treviso football club which had its own free wi-fi connection. So even Joan had connectivity on her i-Pad. She topped up on downloads of books which she reads like lightning taking the total to over 80 in her library. The new connection was installed and although I had to wait 24 hours for it to fully activate, I was up and running again.

Next up - Tuscany, region of Chianti production.

Life in Fifi le Van(2)

Another update on life in the 'van.

 

Chausson Flash 30

Our motorhome, a Chausson Flash 30 on a Ford Transit chassis, has now covered 6,500 miles since new from April 2012. Mechanically it has been trouble free, with no incidents, accidents, near misses or hair raising moments. The habitation part has had two repairs done, that being:-

- the shower door fold out extension which needed re-gluing and re-affixing
- the habitation door catch (small exterior catch) which needed replacing after it cracked a second time

Both items were seen to and repaired/replaced under warranty at a Chausson dealer in Geldern, Germany, effectively and efficiently at no cost to ourselves.

Likes:-
- Comfortable, no fuss no nonsense 'van. It does what it says on the label.
- Can go for at least 4-5 days before a sani-station is needed, to empty the toilet cassette and waste water tank, and fill up with fresh water. Usage based on two adults. This means you can 'free camp' if so wished.
- The fitment of a 11kg LPG cylinder meaning refilling by yourself at service stations, instead of the hassle with red and blue gas cylinders. We go for 3 weeks before we refill with the tank still reading 20-30% full.
- The fitment of a solar panel, a second leisure battery and an inverter which means you do not need to pay for and plug into campsite electricity. This has saved us a good bit of money and we only plug in when the camp fee includes the usage of electricity. Heating (when needed) is run on Diesel using the Webasto factory fitted heating system - yes Diesel from your fuel tank! Cuts out when tank level reaches 25%.
- Long range 90 litre fuel tank gives 500 miles easy, averaging 29mpg.
- Big fridge with separate freezer. When well stocked with perishables you can go for a week without the need for a supermarket. And we eat hearty home cooked meals, no tins and prepared stuff.

Minor irritations:-
- The fresh water filler cap lock plays up when the tank is filled to max. It appears that a wet water tank cap renders the lock mechanism non-operative. You can close the tank with the cap, no problem, locking it is the problem. Leaving it in the sun for a few hours allowing the mechanism to dry, cures the problem though .... !
- What is termed a Grill, is not quite a grill, it is good for warming and toasting of bread. It warms croissants wonderfully! Well it is French.

The layout chosen by us, rear island double bed and drop down double bed above the dinette (seldom used though), is a treat. The drop down bed however proved the point when one of us was incapacitated and needed the full bed at the rear.
Large garage under that island bed is most necessary when long terming as we are currently doing, touring Europe.
The after market cab window blinds is a 'must have', it gives total privacy whilst still leaving the cab accessible, even though it comes with a fitted cab curtain.

More in due course ....

Croatia - Adriatic coastline

WOW!! The Croatian coastline and three pictures below which sums up our activities there.

Having a swim

Getting ready for a braai (bbq)

Croatian sunset over the Adriatic

Before you ask, the two specks on the upper part of the above photo are two helicopters, not dust spots on the camera lens. The sunsets are as dramatic as can be seen anywhere, and that includes Africa.

We left Zagreb for the Croatian coastline and made a beeline for Senj which seemed the nearest in terms of distance. It was, but only after descending a mountain pass using second and third gear at best. To celebrate this first sight of the sea for many weeks, in full sun I have to say, Joan suggested that we have a seafood platter at the little eatery next to the camperstop. Freshly made and served in style at £42.00 for two including wine and service, it was thoroughly enjoyed!

Small fishing harbour in Senj

Dusk over the camperstop area in Senj

I went for a swim the next morning and we had a look around the town and adjacent yacht harbour. This was my first good look at Balkan building styles and architecture and there is a definite appeal to it. Maybe because it is less planned and not over regulated by red tape and by-laws as we know them in the 'developed' world. One other thing that struck me, again, was the laid back cafe culture of the continent. That mix of easy going over a long meal and a few drinks, no rowdiness or loutish behaviour, no overt drunkenness and the associated problems .... not seen yet anyway.

 

Looking at the above picture, there is something attractive about beat up cars and unfinished buildings, always reminds me of Beirut in the 1980's.

'Korner Bar' - literally.

The inner town had various little eateries, cafes and bars giving it a Mediterranean feel, which it is being on the Adriatic.

After a stay of two nights we travelled further south from Senj towards Zadar along the coast road. Much slower going because of the winding road and sheer drops at times on the seaward side, it also struck us how arid and sparsely vegetated the coastline was in areas. Rocky and stony ground and of course only pebbled beaches, but a most inviting sea which I soon had another swim in! Right there next to the road.
We found, and stayed for two nights, a camperstop right next to the beach with the water 10 paces from our doorstep. Luxury I tell you!

Fifi centre right

I know .... I know

We had really started on the sun, sea and bbq routine by now. A butcher was found in town as well as a small supermarket selling salad ingredients, so the outdoor dining experience started taking off. The Weber started working overtime - well almost. Neither do we have that British look (no tan) anymore, we have started tanning!
We left Autocamp Pisak in Seline, near Zadar, and started the journey down the coast direction Split. Just outside Zadar after 10 miles of travel we came across a large new shopping mall, showcasing a Spar International sign. In we went into a wonderfully well stocked supermarket and did a proper shop coming to 400 Kuna, about £45.00. Laden down with groceries and grog we continued about 30 miles down the road and came across a sign saying Autocamp Romantica near Drage. This proved to be a mile down a dirt road from whence a man appeared, frantically waving me down. He said he had just the right spot for us and that we need not bother checking out any of the other three camperstops nearby. He showed me around the virtually empty terraced spaces and after we had agreed a tariff, I chose a spot near the water's edge. Soon after we were swimming and late afternoon the Weber was readied for the bbq. Bliss! We also travelled in to Biograd na Moru, the nearest town, for a look around. This is where the 2011 European HOG rally was held, which we gave a miss because of hotel booking problems. I don't think we missed much.
The stay at Camp Romantica was enjoyable to the extent that we remained for four nights. The views over the Adriatic and the Croatian coastline will be long cherished, so too the swims and sunsets. Friendly hosting family and very laid back life style and campsite atmosphere, all of which placed the cherry on the cake of our visit to Croatia. We left in glorious sunshine and took the road back north towards Slovenia and Italy, Italy being the next country. We crossed the Velebit mountains after joining the motorway at Biograd n M and stopped on the Mali Allan pass for a last look at the coastline.
Thank you Croatia for your hospitality and your kindness, we thoroughly enjoyed the visit and if ever we are near the Balkan again, a repeat visit is assured!

Mali Allan peak 1044m

Looking west towards Zadar

The journey to the Slovenian border via Rijeka using what appeared to be a recently built motorway (toll road) took us 7 hours including stops and the hefty 215 Kuna (£24.00) toll fee at the end of the about 300 km length we used. Blimey, that took us by surprise!
We had the choice of staying overnight near Rijeka in Croatia, but decided to be bold and make for Italy, not far at about 50 odd miles using country roads through Slovenia .... 50 miles and almost four hours later ....
Now that is a whole new story, to be covered in the next post.

Croatia - Zagreb

The visit to Zagreb

Visiting the capital of Croatia (part of the former Yugoslavia) had a specific purpose with some objectives; herewith a short introduction to the story.

On 4 May 1945, a B26 Martin Marauder (fast medium bomber) from 25 Squadron South African Air Force (SAAF) with 7 aircrew on board, was shot down by German anti-aircraft (AA) guns to the east of Zagreb. The co-pilot was Lt MC Bekker, an uncle of mine. This was the last mission of the Squadron in WW2, flown three days before the end of the war. Their target was the Zagreb-Dugo Selo railway line east of Zagreb and their mission was flown in support of Marshall Tito's Yugoslav Partisans, who were battling with retreating German forces on and near this railway line.
All seven crew members died, two were buried near the wreckage and the remaining five in a nearby churchyard.
No one from my family has ever visited the area, access to the area only became possible once Croatia became an independent country, after the break up of Yugoslavia and resulting civil wars in the Balkan region. Visiting the area became a certain destination once plans for this 'European Adventure' was in place.

Details and relevant information pertaining to this mission have been obtained from Lt Bekker's logbook and from the archives of the SAAF.

B26 Martin Marauder

I had three objectives in mind:-

- finding the location of the German AA position
- seeing the area where the aircraft went down
- finding the churchyard where five of the crew were buried

We left our overnight camperstop in rainy weather for the Dugo Selo area using our SatNav programmed with the map grid reference of the AA gun position. This took us to the sprawling village of Tedrovec near Dugo Selo. Following the road into the village we came across a memorial.

Memorial to Yugoslav partisans

This was a memorial to Yugoslav partisans who fought and died during hostilities in the area. I also spoke to a man from a nearby house, in German because he spoke no English, who took and showed me the remains of what seems to be fortified positions / bunkers near the railway line. He also said that the rail bridge nearby was rebuilt in the early 1950's and that more of the 'bunkers' were visible when he was a child in the early 1970's. The area is now overgrown in grass.

Train crossing the bridge with bunker remains left centre

I drove further into Tedrovec and came across more remains of fortified positions which showed a collapsed roof and strengthened walls. There was also a staircase leading into the position and judging by the size of it, it may have been an accommodation area for German soldiers.

More remains of some fortified position

We left the area of Tedrovec late afternoon and to me the following was clear, based on my own observations and the hour long conversation I had with a resident who has been there since the 1960's.

- the railway line was important to the Germans, to the extent that permanent fortified positions were built protected by AA gun positions
- a major skirmish occurred here, to the extent that a memorial to Yugoslav partisans was erected
- the target was one of significant importance to the Yugoslav partisans and their fight against the retreating Germans, in that the mission was sanctioned so near to the end of hostilities

My next place of visit was the area where the aircraft went down. According to the records it appeared as if a controlled emergency landing was attempted with the stricken Marauder in a field about two miles north of the AA position. This was obviously unsuccessful and all seven crew members perished.

Area where the aircraft went down

Field corresponding to reference

I drove to the village nearest the given map grid reference and parked our motorhome near some buildings. I walked some distance into the fields, for my own sake and to pay respects.

They shall grow not old, as we that are left grow old:

Age shall not weary them, nor the years condemn.

At the going down of the sun and in the morning,

We will remember them

I also spoke to workers nearby who in turn flagged down a passing car with someone they knew. The girl spoke English and suggested that I visit the 'Klostar Ivanic', a church in the nearby town of Ivanic Grad and speak to someone in authority there regarding my enquiries.
This I did and promptly went knocking on the door of what turned out to be a Franciscan monastic order. I was cordially asked by a Nun who spoke German, to sit down whilst she calls someone to assist me. I duly had a conversation in German with a Father of the monastry.
I put to him all relevant details and asked if indeed there was a churchyard near the town of Beslinec, as given in the SAAF archives. He confirmed that and directed me on how to get there, only some 5 miles to the north of Ivanic Grad. He said it was a very small churchyard and that the church is not readily visible from the main road. He also said that if I needed more details, if this exists and if it can be found, regarding the burial of the crew, I could come back the Monday (this being a Saturday) and the office could help.
We travelled the few miles but somewhere I must have missed a turning and decided to turn around and start looking anew, when a car pulled up behind us and a man got out. In fluent English he asked if he could help, saying that he saw this British registered motorhome passing by obviously looking for something. I gave him some brief details and he said to follow him to the churchyard about 1 mile away.

The kindness of strangers ....

I started walking around the small churchyard of Beslinec, which falls under the auspices of 'Klostar Ivanic' looking for dates and names and anything that may be of some value in my enquiries.

Grave in Beslinec

I came across the above grave which had a plaque in Croatian, which I could not decipher, but which crucially had a date of 1945 on it. I called out to our friend, who was walking around the graves with Joan, and asked him to translate the inscription.
It was a grave, he said, dedicated to 8 fallen soldiers of the Croatian national army who died in 1945 during hostilities in the area. However, and this turned out to be the brainwave of the day, he said he would enquire from locals living next to the churchyard who may also have information. He summarily started talking to a woman walking by and she offered to walk us all down the street to where a 93 year old lady lived that knew everything regarding burials in the churchyard.
This 93 year old lady told us that in "the grave with the big cross" the bodies of some airmen were laid to rest during the war, but that after the war they were exhumed and taken away by "British people". **See footnote**. She also told us of how 8 other Croatian soldiers got buried there. Ongoing hostilities, after the end of the war in May 1945, between Tito's partisans and the Croatian national army, led to the deaths of the eight unknown soldiers. It was explained to me that there was no love lost between Tito's partisans and the Croatian militia during and after WW2, in fact they fought on opposing sides. The plaque denoting the fact that 8 Croatian soldiers were also buried there, was only added once Croatia became independent from the now non-existent Yugoslavia. In order to fully grasp Balkan (Yugoslavian) complexities when it comes to the various peoples of the region, you need to fully immerse yourself in its history. That, is not part of this exercise.
There are no names and no definitive indication of who lies buried in the soil beneath the cross, but the very clear explanations of this lady and her son, sounded compelling. As said before, the official SAAF archives confirms the burial of 5 of the aircrew, temporarily, in this churchyard.
There are many more questions I could have asked, and as is often the case, you leave with even more 'unknowns' than what you arrived with. I will be in further contact with the man that offered to help when we were looking for the churchyard, and more details may come to light. Thank you my friend, for your kindness and your time. Your arrival on a quiet street in rural Croatia, was crucial to this story.

Churchyard in Beslinec

I have the satisfaction that my mission to find the objectives as stated in the beginning have been fulfilled. An exercise of this kind needs time and patience and resources, the search for facts of this nature can be almost endless. Suffice to say I left the area of final operations of 25 Sqd SAAF, as conducted on 4 May 1945, with much more knowledge and evidence of the events on the day.

They went with songs to the battle, they were young.

Straight of limb, true of eyes, steady and aglow.

They were staunch to the end against odds uncounted,

They fell with their faces to the foe.

We left the Zagreb area late afternoon on Saturday 15 Sept 2012 for the Croatian coast on the Adriatic Sea.

** The five SAAF Airmen were exhumed by the British Authorities after the war and reburied in the Belgrade War Cemetery, where all Commonwealth casualties in Yugoslavia were eventually laid to rest. The bloc in the Belgrade Cemetery is tended and maintained by the Commonwealth War Graves Commission (CWGC). **

En route through Austria & Slovenia

We travelled non-stop in pouring rain and low cloud from Lake Konigsee, through Austria to Lake Faakersee, on the border of Slovenia. Faakersee is known amongst bikers as the venue for the annual European Bike Week, in which Harley-Davidson is a major player. As we've never been there, we decided to stay overnight on the banks of this lake - pricey at 25 Euros. The 2012 event had just finished three days prior to our arrival and evidence of marquees and stalls were still visible. And the rain continued all night ....
On to Slovenia the next morning and it was much the same thing, so we continued on until the outskirts of Zagreb in Croatia. All in all about 400 miles over the two days, with regular stops for tea, a sandwich etc as we travel. We seldom exceed 60mph (100km/h) and usually the cruise control is set at 95km/h which keeps us ahead of the trucks and lorries on motorways.

Scenery and what did we see? Not much! The decision to travel over those two days was deliberate, based on the weather forecasts.

Zagreb in Croatia is a whole new story - stay tuned.

Germany - Lake Konigsee

We spent our last few days in Germany near the town of Berchtesgaden and on the banks of Lake Konigsee, that beautiful stretch of water in south eastern Germany. We have not been to the Konigsee before, so it was all new to us and we decided to make a proper job of it. It's a busy place with visitors and tourists and the main pedestrianised avenue has retailers on both sides, until you get to the waters edge. Small hotels and guesthouses abound, with as many eateries and cafes presenting mainly Bavarian fayre. There are also shops that could sell you a full Bavarian national costume at anything up to 2000 Euros .... ! Also a music shop with some proper German folk music from Heino and Freddy Quin, which Joan pretended not to see and kept dragging me off somewhere else.

From the lake towards the town

One of us had to row the boat ....

.... and one of us, well ....

We hired a little row boat on two consecutive days for a couple of hours to just enjoy the views and the tranquillity that mountains and water can bring. Medicine for the soul I call it. On the second day we took along a little picnic and stopped at a quiet spot on the banks only to see a rain cloud appear from nowhere almost spoiling the fun by a short drizzle.
We also did the short 1 hour walk along a track taking you through the Alpine forest and presenting lovely views of Lake Konigsee. There are benches every now and then allowing time to take in the surroundings, making the area visitor friendly. And how grand these views are across the lake.

Looking south towards St Bartholomeo

Lunch, on the spur of the moment one afternoon, was at Cafe Mahlerwinkl, a traditional Bavarian style Stube serving local fayre - see picture. Served graciously with style it added much value to the experience. Isn't it still strange how somehow in most eateries on the continent you get service that seems hassle free and given with a smile and aplomb, and how there can be a dearth of good service at similar priced eateries in the UK?
Our last afternoon was spent with Joan doing some rinsing of clothes, me updating the Blog and doing some on-line preparations for the journey to Zagreb (Croatia). With views of the hills and that (in)famous building on top of a mountain, all viewed from our own motorhome, working on the computer was ever so easy - did I mention the 'helles' on the side?

View of the Kehlstein from Fifi's dinette window 

Even went for a stroll on the last evening down the pedestrian zone -

One looked at lit up buildings ....

the other at Bavarian national dress ....

After almost two months in Germany we have grown used to efficiency and an independent way of life that we too enjoy. I personally have looked forward to the 'New Adventure' component that would be Germany, and it has not disappointed!

Auf Wiedersehen Pet .... (Germany)

Germany - Berchtesgaden(2)

When visiting the Obersalzberg area there are two distinct parts to see, more so if you visit from a historical perspective. That which is on the ground just above the town of Berchtesgaden and that which is some 1800 metres high perched on a mountain top, with only a small plateau to one side. On this our second full day in Berchtesgaden, we visited the Kehlstein (Eagle's nest), the building used by Adolf Hitler to impress people with its views and location, and where meetings were held at times. It was built as a present to him for his 50th birthday and after restoration was converted into a restaurant and cafe with an outside terrace. Some of the original fixtures and fittings have been retained and can still be seen.
Going by shuttle bus is the only way to get there, taking you up a one way narrow road to the tunnel and lift for the last 100 metres to the top. The ride on the bus is an experience in itself with sheer drops to one side, albeit on a very good road. Walking takes you about 2 hours.

Shuttle bus to the top

Views over Berchtesgaden

Upon reaching the upper bus park you get your ticket stamped with your preferred return time, last bus at 17:00. The visit will take you at least two hours at a leisuely pace and longer if you have a meal and really want to soak in the views - they are splendid on a clear day! Go early in the morning if you can and take the first shuttle at 09:00, this means an uncrowded visit and certainly adds to the value of the experience - we did!

Tunnel leading to the lift and the Eagle's nest on the top

Near the lift looking back to the entrance

The lift taking you to the building and restaurant is all in polished solid brass with mirrors, original fittings I believe. Once at restaurant level and being there so early, we got to see the original fire place in solid marble and oak beamed ceilings. There are pictures showing the interior as it was in its heyday, meaning comparisons with today is easy.

On the terrace of the Eagle's nest

Outside on the terrace there are 360` views with Salzburg in Austria clearly visible. There are many benches dotted around the plateau so finding a quiet spot to enjoy views and silence is not difficult early in the day.

Looking south to Lake Konigsee

Kehlstein house and cafe from the plateau

Campanula Alpina

Visiting the Obersalzberg, as in 1981, you are in some ways overwhelmed by the sheer beauty and the setting, surrounded as it is by mountains on all sides. To have visited the area for four days with mainly blue skies and sunny weather in 25C was just stunning.
We decided to not take the lift down, but to walk down to the shuttle bus drop off point, outside the tunnel entrance. A 30 minute walk down a level pathway and you are there, then shuttle bus back to the bottom of the mountain, concludes the visit.



Germany - Berchtesgaden(1)

We travelled from Vilshofen to Berchtesgaden going through Salzburg, by mistake and not design. Coming down the A3 in Germany I had a foreboding that we may be travelling through Austria. Arriving at the border I had to find a vignette selling office very soon and as it happened there was one at the border. Austria has a system whereby you pay in advance to use their motorways, in our case with a 3.5 ton van 10 Euros. However, if you don't know about this it is easy to just keep travelling until you are stopped with I believe a hefty fine.
I should have programmed the GPS to take us on German country roads and not Austrian motorways, anyway now we have the sticker ready for Austria when we enter on Wednesday 12 Sept ....

We arrived in the beautiful Berchtesgaden area, the Obersalzberg to be precise, on a dull day but with a weather forecast promising a sunny weekend - and so it was too! We found a lovely camperstop in Oberau high on the mountain with good views and settled down to pan fried chicken and cous-cous. The next day had a leisurely start and we drove to the area in the Obersalzberg which was once so prominent in German history during the 1930's and 1940's, the area where many of Nazi Germany's top officials including Adolf Hitler, had homes. The area still draws large amounts of visitors and tourists, both for its historical and geographical value; it is stunningly beautiful Alpine countryside!

View of the Untersberg from the Intercontinental Hotel terrace

The day's exploring started by visiting the Information centre on the Obersalzberg (follow signs reading Kehlstein) where you also find the car parks, shuttle bus park to the Kehlstein (Eagle's nest) and some good curio shops with all and sundry pertaining to the area. We parked Fifi on four spaces and bought the 4 Euro parking ticket and set off exploring with my previous 1981 memories and some sleuthing and asking around. The first major find was the remains, some walls and foundation stone, of Hitler's residence the Berghof. There are no signs showing the way and you need to have some local knowledge to find it, garnered from guide books and the internet. Remember that you are in an area which has history most Germans would rather forget.

Walls and foundation stone of the former Berghof

Underground tunnels and corridors near the Berghof can still be accessed

The weather was warm and sunny and conducive to walking and exploring and this is what we did, me telling Joan bits and pieces of how things were in the late 1930's and 40's in this area. We enjoyed a drink and superb views from the terrace of the Intercontinental Hotel, with service and price to match.
The drive back to our mountain camperstop was a happy one in the knowledge that we had a good day's sightseeing - both history and geography. We feasted that evening on barbecued pork ribs and kebabs, done in our own Weber, with a fresh salad and other local delicacies like sweet gherkins and mild pepperonis.

Mountain camperstop with Weber at the ready

The next day was to be another long day with the visit to the Kehlstein (Eagle's Nest) with all the history and splendid views from that mountain top in the Alpine foothills of Bavaria.

Germany - Vilshofen, near Passau

My last visit to north eastern Bavaria was in 1981 and it was very brief, a short look around the 'old town' of Passau. However, the impression of the region was such that I made a mental note of it to have a look again at some time in the future.
We started by spending two nights at the thermal baths of Bad Griesbach, south of Passau and then travelled the short 20km to the banks of the Danube (Donau) at Vilshofen. When I say the banks of the Danube, it is meant literally because anything nearer and we would have been in the water.

On the Danube

 

Our stay was for one night only, because that is what the information board requests, but I could easily have stayed two more! The scenic beauty of the spot and the silent passing of river boats and barges to name two reasons. Sitting on the banks of this river, on your own chair with a sundowner in hand, brings another of those immeasurable qualities that enhances life. It was free and gratis stopping there for the night, which I think added to the quality of the stopover. Motorhoming makes this possible and in a motorhome friendly country such as Germany, you are given this choice.



Camperstop at Vilshofen, on the Danube.

Photographic opportunities abound if you are interested in boats, one such was of this canoe and two rowers sharing the same water as the barge, both going downstream direction Passau.

'David and Goliath'

Looking out of the window we saw this luxury river cruise boat gliding by. I grabbed the camera and got a shot of it as it disappeared up stream - a moment in time indelibly etched on the memory and captured on a modern day digital camera.

A passing boat in the night 

The town of Vilshofen from the bridge

A common theme wherever we stop in similar surroundings is that comes the final sunlight of the day, you see your fellow travellers all having a little something. It was no different here on the Danube, and it was not long before I had a quick conversation with the Dutch couple in their £250,000 Concorde Liner motorhome. No need for drawn out pleasantries, we are all travelling to and from somewhere, we may share favourite camperstops, discuss the intricacies of EU policies or the latest count of Olympic medals in the now finished London 2012 games.

Sundowner time

We made an early start (not later than 09:00) towards our next stop at Berchtesgaden in the south eastern corner of Germany. The A3 motorway took us south past Passau, across the Danube and the next thing we knew we were in Austria, about to use an Austrian motorway without a vignette or motorway sticker ....

Germany - Munich

Visiting our friends in Munich was always going to be a highlight of this 'New Adventure' whilst travelling Europe. That it was to be a weekend of culinary delight from Hillrike's kitchen, was a bonus and what an experience it was! The three nights spent with Bernd and Hillrike at their home will be long remembered, not only for the cuisine, but also for the wonderful conversations around the table, for their open house hospitality and for the sheer pleasure of sharing their company. Few things in life can match good food and intelligent conversation, mixed with humour and old fashioned story telling around a table with people who you know are real friends.

Joan, Marius, Hillrike and Bernd

We left the Alpine region of southern Bavaria in rainy weather on Friday 31 August and the rain was with us all the way to Munich. Nevertheless the Deutsche Alpenstrasse road to the A8 autobahn was beautiful and not busy, until we hit the very busy A8 between Munich and Salzburg. It was slow going with two accidents on both sides bringing the traffic to a halt at times. We stopped at the lay by next to Lake Chiemsee for tea and only arrived in Munich by 17:00, more than an hour later than planned. We parked Fifi in their driveway and were soon enjoying a freshly baked cake with tea. Dinner followed at 20:00.

- Fresh Tuna with Sesame on Seaweed salad
- Parsley Root Soup with Carrots
- Steinpilz-Carpaccio with Cheese and Basil
- Calf Fillet with mashed Sweet Potato
- Assorted Cheese and Biscuits
- Summer Fruits with Strawberry Sauce

It was fabulous!

The next morning saw a breakfast fit for a King. Freshly baked buns with an assortment of cheese and cold meats, muesli with fresh summer fruits, freshly brewed coffee.
Then it was sightseeing time and Hillrike took us on a guided walk of some of Munich's attractions. The Marienplatz (central square in Munich), the Viktualienmarkt (food stalls and fresh produce markets), State Opera, Hofbrauhaus, Maximillianstrasse (Munich's Regent Street), the Odeonsplatz known for political rally's of the 1920's and 30's, and much more.

Feldherrnhalle, Odeonsplatz, Munich

 

We arrived home via the S-Bahn (local train) and a short walk in time for a quick nap before the evening dinner. And on the Menu was:-

 

- Pimentos de Padron with Mayonnaise

- Mushroom Soup with Cream and Parsley

- Freshly made Greek Salad

- German Goulash with Noodles

- Zabaglione with Fruit Salad and Almonds

 

Another evening of culinary delight!

 

Sunday morning was still grey but the damp and drizzle of the day before had gone and the outing for the day towards the lakes south of Munich was a go. The Ammersee was a focal point and the visit to the Andechs Monastry, with a beer by the same name, was a highlight. Set in lovely countryside with buildings to match, you can enjoy all from the church to the large restaurant serving hearty Bavarian fayre and the 'house' beer, to a smaller garden with views across the town of Herrsching. It was in this garden that we enjoyed a late afternoon snack of Weisswurst for me, Strudel for Joan, and Cheese cake for Hillrike.

 

A part of the Andechs Monastry

 

Strudel, Weisswurst and Cheese cake

The Weisswurst (white Sausage) is served in a bowl of hot spiced water, sausage is taken out and cut open to remove the meat from the membrane, and eaten with mustard and a pretzel on the side - jawohl! All this was enjoyed after a leisurely stroll on the banks of the Ammersee and chatting the afternoon away on any and all subjects. Hillrike knows Munich and the surrounding area very well and her knowledge and expertise provides an insight second to none!
We insisted that there be no cooking on the Sunday evening and that we finish what was left from the previous evenings. The meal was again so wonderfully put together that to the unknown it would have seemed like an all new menu. The piece d' resistance was a 10 year old Pomerol from Bordeaux brought out from Bernd's cellar. Heavenly!
Our visit will be long remembered, the friendship goes back more than 30 years and long may it continue for all to enjoy.

 

Vielen Dank Hillrike und Bernd!