Thursday, 7 February 2013

Sicily - Weather and Sea (Pictorial)

There are few if anything that can show changes and mood swings as coastal weather can. Anybody who has ever spent time living near to, as I have, or in present times as we are now, camping / motorhoming next to the sea, will testify to the unpredictability of coastal weather.
Southern Sicily and the Mediterranean is no different and don't be fooled by the belief that the Med is a sea and not an ocean and therefor is without wind and stormy weather. It may be less stormy than the Atlantic for example, but is has 'weather' big time! It probably has more good weather than bad, borne out by the myriad of ports large and small all over its coastline of southern Europe and northern Africa, used for leisure, fishing, commerce and trade and the cruise line industry.
 
From a photographic point of view it is a gem and will provide happy snappers and serious photographers and everybody in between, wonderful memories. Below is a selection of shots taken over the last month during our stay at Punta Braccetto in southern Sicily.
 
A classic Med winter sunset over the ruins at Punta Braccetto

Same view with approaching cloud bank from the southwest

Looking southeast at heavy weather

Remains of hailstones at the beach viewpoint

A washed out beach after heavy rain - looking west

Same as above - looking east

The normal state of the beach

The normal activity late afternoon on many a day
Five motorhomes and eight Brits spending the winter in southern Sicily
I wonder why?

Sunday, 3 February 2013

Sicily - Ragusa Ibla (Inferior & Superior)

Ragusa Ibla is a small city in southern Sicily of 75,000 people built on a limestone hill between two deep valleys. It has city status because of the Cathedral of Saint Giovanni Battista. It has a long history dating back to the 2nd Millennium BC and has seen various rulers from Arabs to Romans until conquered by the Normans in the 11th Century. It became part of the Kingdom of Sicily which in turn was incorporated into the Italian Republic by Giuseppe Garibaldi. Ragusa Ibla is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
The city is an amalgamation of two parts, Ragusa Inferiore and Ragusa Superiore, the lower town and the upper town or as some would have it the old town and the new town. Much was destroyed in an earthquake in 1693 but as much was rebuilt in the new town in the Baroque style so prevalent in Sicily and Italy.
We spent a good few hours walking the narrow streets and alleyways and found the city an intriguing mix of style, character and that unique Italian decadence providing shabbiness and class all in one. I could easily go for a second visit and would recommend it as a destination in Sicily. You need not walk around all day either, there are numerous cafes and even a two star Michelin restaurant to cater for all needs. You will also notice from these pictures the lack of people in the streets - it was low season and photographic opportunities without the hordes were easily come by.

The 'lower town' taken from inside the minibus. The small houses appear set into the limestone cliff.

Cathedral and lower town

Piazza Duomo (Cathedral Square)

The 'upper town'

Entrance to a home in upper town Ragusa

View west towards the old town and viaduct crossing the valley

Pastel coloured roof tiles and washing line - so Italian!

View from the public gardens to the upper town
 
Main entrance to the public gardens (Giardini Iblei)

Monument to fallen Italian soldiers of WW1. The inscription reads Pro Patria but whatever was mounted on the pedestal is no longer there. Some 600,000 Italian soldiers died in WW1. I saw no mention of WW2.
 
Fountain in Giardini Iblei
 
Portal to the old Cathedral of San Giorgio. The church was destroyed in the 1693 earthquake but the portal was restored showing the Knight slaying the Dragon. The new Cathedral was built more towards the centre of town near the top of the hill. 

How to get where you're going in Ragusa? Easy, just follow the signs!

 

Wednesday, 30 January 2013

Sicily - Castello di Donnafugata

Visiting the 'castle' of Donnafugata
 
'Donnafugata' could be translated as 'The lady who escaped' but this meaning is said to be a myth that makes a good story - as is often the case. Its history is complicated (not that I fully understand it) and there seems to be some Arabic name involvement, so for the sake of simplicity I will stick to the 'good story'. The story goes that the widowed Queen Bianca of King Martin l, who was Regent of Sicily circa 1410, was kept prisoner in the castle by Count Cabrera because he (Count Cabrera) needed her to marry him in order for him to become the new King. She refused because Cabrera was known as an executioner in Sicily and she eventually made good her escape.
 
Castello di Donnafugata is at best a wealthy nobleman's home (it is not a castle in the true meaning of the word) which saw its heyday in the early 20th Century under the auspices of Baron Corrado Arezzo. Its construction goes back to the 14th Century, but most of its history prior to the 18th Century is lost and therefor is open to speculation. It fell into disrepair after WW2 until its take over by the town council of Ragusa in 1982, when the slow process of restoration was started. It is situated on high ground with views over the Mediterranean and is bordered by 8 hectares of parkland. The building has a beautiful Neo-Gothic facade which is the dominant feature as you walk towards it.
 
Neo-Gothic facade

Former staff quarters

Exiting Donnafugata

Scale model


Staircase to the first floor

Stone figurine on staircase

Inner courtyard and entrance to the house

As with many buildings of historical significance photography is not permitted once inside and the same applied here once the private rooms are entered. The decor and furnishings are not nearly as opulent as for example those of English stately homes, but it has that Italian style and expression which no-one else can replicate. Some artifacts have been lost during the tumult of the war years and the unsettled period thereafter but it is still a joy to visit - low season with no crowds!

In the carpark ....

Sunday, 27 January 2013

Sicily - Hailstorm at Punta Braccetto

Punta Braccetto is almost on a par with the southern most point of Sicily, and is actually further south than the northern most point of Tunisia on the African continent. The island of Malta is only 90 minutes by ferry from Pozzallo, which is some 20 miles east of where we are on Punta Braccetto.
So let's start with weather since our arrival, which has been mainly good, but it has also given us some very windy and rainy days! There was also the one night when a hailstorm passed overhead damaging some motorhomes, thankfully not ours.
However, let it be said, on some days we still don shorts and sandals, although you mostly need a thin fleece or jumper to keep warm. We can and do still sit outside on reclining chairs whenever the sun is out and temperatures rise to 15+ Celsius over the midday hours.
The campsite stretches from the road entrance all the way to the sea and can accommodate about 30 motorhomes. Large pitches with a choice of sea views or more secluded areas are on offer, each 'van has its own toilet in an ablution area near your pitch. There are numerous showers and basins with good hot water all over the site, as well as dish and clothes washing facilities. Wi-fi coverage is good and all facilities are serviced twice weekly. There is a weekly minibus shuttle to a large fresh produce, meat and fish market in nearby Vittoria. Bread van visits every morning with a selection of breads, buns and pastries.

By day ....

.... by night.

Punta Braccetto viewed from our beach

Make no mistake, as mentioned above we did have one night of severe weather with torrential rain, lightning, thunder and then that deathly silence which means only one thing - hail. It hammered down like there was no tomorrow .... and the morrow revealed several hail damaged motorhomes, cracked skylights and dented body work. We were lucky and escaped damage ....

Signs of trouble

The not-so-placid Med

A carpet of hailstones ....

.... some the size of golf balls.

Even the beach was a washout

Two days later things had settled down again, some made emergency repairs to their 'vans using duct tape and a wry smile mixed with fortitude and resilience - no one packed up and went home. Home meant snow, ice and a minus degrees temperature all over northern Europe and the UK. Rainy weather, with some sunny breaks, has been with us for the past few days but if the forecast is anything to go by sunny weather is back soon.

The weather gave some good photo opportunities

Thursday, 24 January 2013

Sergeant Salvatore D' Acquisto

We have travelled through Italy and Sicily for the past few months, stopped at various historical sights pertaining to WW2, only to find that very little mention is made of Italy's participation in that war. We came across this exception in the central piazza in Vittoria, Sicily, although upon first examination of the marble plaque, it is not at all obvious as to who the man is. No mention is made of the Second World War. What drew my attention is the inscription 'Military Medal for Valour'.
 
 
Deputy Sergeant Salvatore D' Acquisto (1920-1943)
Military Medal for Valour - Gold
Italian Carabinieri

Below an edited extraction from an article in the Catholic Herald:-

Modern Italy has few war heroes. One soldier from the WW2 period (1939-1945) is however honoured; he has squares, schools and streets named after him. He is an NCO named Salvo D’Aquisto, who died aged 22. He has a simple tomb in Santa Chiara, the most beautiful church, in his native Naples, and in Italy they are waiting for him to be canonised; when that happens Salvo D’Acquisto will be the first 'soldier saint' of the Second World War.

He was the eldest of eight children: three died in infancy, one in childhood; the youngest brother is still alive and living in Naples, and is now in his late seventies. The entire family, including a formidable grandmother, all lived in one large room in the Vomero quarter.
They were not particularly poor by the standards of the time. Their father worked in a chemical factory. Salvo himself was a studious child, even bookish, but still left school aged 14, as working-class boys did in those days.

At 18, the minimum age, having done a few jobs in the meantime, he enrolled in the Carabinieri, the oldest regiment in the Italian Army, which carries out the functions of a police force. Archbishop Giovanni Marra, Italy’s military bishop, describes Salvo as tall, athletic and with limpid eyes, "a true son of Southern Italy", and so he was in more than just looks. No less than four of his immediate male relatives had enrolled in the Carabinieri a sure sign then that there were few alternative careers available for a talented but poor Neapolitan. He spent 18 months in North Africa on active service; he was recalled, promoted to NCO, and had his last posting in a little village north of Rome.
But these are only facts; one gazes at photographs, reads his letters home, and speaks to his brother. From these pieces a mosaic emerges of the life of the man who now lies in Santa Chiara. “So quiet you would hardly think he was Neapolitan,” a schoolmaster of Salvo says.
One sees the young soldier paddling in the Mediterranean, in grainy black and white; or wearing a pith helmet in Libya, smiling. “You are just the type of Neapolitan girl that I have always had in my heart and so much prized,” he writes to his madrina di guerra, a young lady called Maria, who, as was the custom, had sent him her photograph, along with a picture of the Sacred Heart, to bolster his morale. “I’ll keep them both next to my heart,” he tells her. A typical son of the Italian South.
But there is more than that: his letters to his parents and to his madrina di guerra have a peculiar quality about them. No one could write them today. In seeking the man who lies in Santa Chiara one enters a lost world of purity and innocence.

When Italy changed sides in September 1943, Salvo was at his post at Torrimpietra, north of Rome.
His commanding officer had been called to Rome that day, and Salvo was thus, at the age of 22, the senior representative of the Italian State police (Carabinieri) in Torrimpietra. At 08:00 that morning a party of Germans arrived, wearing the uniform of the dreaded SS. Salvo, ever polite, went to greet them, holding out a hand only to be struck by a rifle and taken away without even time to put on his jacket. What had happened was this; the day before, the SS, in occupying a medieval tower at nearby Palidoro had caused an explosion. One German was dead, two wounded, and sabotage suspected.
Despite the fact that the explosion was accidental, the commander of the SS had decided on reprisals. Twenty two local men had been rounded up and were going to be shot unless Salvo could point out the person responsible for the supposed crime.

It was to be a long day. Those arrested were ordered to dig a trench, some of them with their bare hands. The process of digging their own mass grave reduced many of them to tears. Only Salvo kept calm and tried to reason with the SS. In vain. It was only at 5pm that he at last succeeded in persuading the SS to let their prisoners go. One of the prisoners stayed to see the outcome, while the others fled in gratitude. He was a 17-year-old boy, and the sole witness of Salvo’s death at the hands of the SS firing squad. For Salvo had convinced the Germans that he was responsible for the imaginary crime, in so doing saving the lives of 22 countrymen. “You live once, you die once,” he had told the boy while they had been digging the trench that afternoon.
A story of generosity, bravery and Christian charity. Here is one Italian who did not run away; one man who, in the sorry history of the war, did something to save fellow Italians from an unjust execution.

Credits to the Catholic Herald

http://www.catholicherald.co.uk/commentandblogs/2012/07/26/the-incredible-sacrifice-of-salvo-daquisto/

Monday, 21 January 2013

Sicily - Military Cemeteries

Part of my stopover in Catania entailed visiting two cemeteries of two opposing sides in the Sicilian Campaign of WW2 - the British War Cemetery and the Deutscher Soldaten Friedhof (German Soldiers' Cemetery) both on the outskirts of Catania.
This campaign was also a major test and training ground for the ability of the Allies (British and American forces) to work and operate together. Lessons learnt here were all applied to the D-Day Normandy landings of June 1944.
The Sicilian campaign also highlighted the rivalry between two well known commanders of WW2, General Sir Bernard Montgomery (Monty) of the British and Lt Gen George Patton (Old Blood and Guts) of the Americans. Below an example of this rivalry:-

"On the morning of 17 August 1943, elements of the US 7th Army entered Messina, just hours after the last Axis (German and Italian) troops had boarded ship for Italy. The enemy had escaped, but Patton quickly brought reinforcements into the port, in the words of 3d Division assistant commander Brig. Gen. William Eagles, "to see that the British did not capture the city from us after we had taken it." Shortly after Patton accepted the city's surrender, a column of British vehicles slowly wound its way through Messina's crooked streets. Spotting General Patton, the commander of the British column walked over and offered his hand in congratulations. Patton had won his race".

http://www.history.army.mil/brochures/72-16/72-16.htm

Catania British Cemetery 1939-1945

Catania British Cemetery 1939-1945
2117 commemorated here

Mt Etna in the background

An unknown bonus of this visit was that the runway of Catania airport was next to the cemetery, which meant that you had a wonderful view of aircraft coming and going.

  
A passenger plane coming in to land

This successful campaign by the Allies also resulted in a significant setback for the Germans in that it was a humiliation for Mussolini and contributed to the switching of sides by the Italians in 1943. The campaign led to serious loss of life on all sides, as is reflected in casualty numbers in the cemeteries.

German Soldiers' Cemetery Catania 1939-1945 

German Soldiers' Cemetery Catania
4561 commemorated here

Dedicated to the Unknown soldier

The cemetery resembles a roofless building of five chambers, four of them commemorating the fallen in the four major centres of battle and the fifth to the Unknown soldier. It continues the theme whereby German WW2 cemeteries each have a unique way in which they honour their fallen.

Saturday, 19 January 2013

Sicily - Catania

Catania is Sicily's second city after its capitol of Palermo. We visited it once in mid December with two fellow Brits whom were also based at Camper Lagani in Giardini. The city I found to be pleasant from an architectural point of view, with many buildings reflecting a typically ornate Italian look to them - well we are in Sicily I suppose.
It has a large well stocked fish market with stalls and tables laden with prawns, whole fish, shell fish, eels and squid and some others I did not know. It is busy and you need to know what you want and how to tell your supplier in Italian what you want .... we were somewhat awestruck.
There is also a fresh meat market, same thing of hustle and bustle with vendors shouting prices and bargains, but here we were more on home ground recognising some good lamb and summarily bought 1kg of 'potjiekos' (stewing lamb) cuts from one guy. Undeterred we also bought sausage, not quite boerewors, but the closest thing I had seen in a long time. Trouble is they tend to put too much pork into the stuffing, and sometimes a salty style pork which bedevils the taste.

Bellini theatre
 
Below are two pictures of the fish market in Catania, close to the centre of town. Now this is what I would call a proper 'old style' fish market, it is very fresh and there is plenty of it, it is hustle and bustle and you can haggle, it is wet and fishy underfoot on cobble stones and no place for ladies with new Miu-Miu sandals. Luckily we had old trainers on so blended in with those around us.
 
Fish market
 
Fish market
 
For a change of smells and surroundings we found our way to the shopping high street of Catania, and it did not disappoint. The usual well known brands are all there with some lovely arcades bringing a blend of fashion and cafes together. Nothing like Bond Street in London, but you can slosh out the dosh if you like.

Fashion
 
Lupitt shopping arcade
 
Near the shopping high street  you will find the stalls and trestle tables with hawkers selling all and anything that is bargain basement, factory reject, unwanted surplus stocks, and a goodly amount of what looked like worn second hand tracksuit tops and bottoms from north Africa. The picture below shows a microcosm of life in this city; the blend of aforementioned clothes stalls and residential flats co-existing side by side. Washing hang from the windows, TV aerials everywhere, trestle tables with tracksuits and caps and milling hordes of shoppers - I think you need to have been born here to survive it all.
 
A very Sicilian neighbourhood
 
Sunrise from Jonio's camperstop

 Our camperstop in Catania was Jonio's which is right on the lava cliffs facing the sea. A good campsite if the city is to be visited, with bus stop across the road and other shopping amenities nearby. It has wonderful views across the Straits of Messina if you can secure one of the front row pitches. You can also walk the 5km into town along the seafront which takes about 45 minutes at a fair pace, which is what we did. The views, the passing parade of other joggers and walkers, the hooting and honking of Italian drivers, all lend a wonderfully Italian atmosphere. Remember a sense of humour helps.
 
Fishing / recreation harbour with Mt Etna in the background
 
View to Jonio's camperstop
 
Fishing boat moorings
 
Catania yacht harbour
 
We stopped on the way back at a clean small pavement cafe / kiosk near the main train and bus station, ordered two coffees and two bottles of water, and do you know what, it was one of the best freshly made strong Italian espressos we had come across. The owner was chatting away to a mate of his over a Moretti beer, the service was slick and friendly and it all came to less than 5 Euros. We had found a little bit of the real Sicily!