Thursday, 21 March 2013

Italy and the Italians


If there is one nation on this planet that can speak of tunnels and the ability to build them it must be the Italians. It also came to our notice that the nearer you are to Italy's northern neighbours the better the roads generally. The opposite applies the further south you go, with places in southern Italy and Sicily just plain bad and bumpy.
The drivers in Italy - best to ask Joan! If they're not on the mobile phone gabbing away, they're wannabee racing drivers. Whether in a Fiat with no wing mirrors or the odd something more upmarket, they're right behind you and the hand very near the hooter. Truck drivers are much the same, except that they also use the fear factor of knowing their vehicle is bigger than yours. If you don't religiously do 95km/h on the motorway you will be notified by the blast of those twin train style trumpets on the roof, and soon after they will try and overtake you. In a motorhome the most relaxing speed is 100km/h, which can drift to 90km/h as you are on holiday looking around at things. Yes, the 'van is equipped with cruise control but .... well you know ....
The remedy against truck drivers is to just stay ahead and wait for the first uphill, then gradually slow down as he cannot overtake you on an uphill because he hasn't the power. The slower you go means he has to keep changing down on the gears until he is doing a nice 50km/h or so. As you near the top of the uphill gradient speed up again and do 110km/h for the next 10 km or so and you will not see him again.
Then you have the scooter riders .... death wish on two wheels they are. Best to ask Joan - again! Nothing beats the scooter riders of Sorrento though - nothing! Helmetless, no gloves, pair of shorts and trainers / sneakers / sandals weaving in and out of the traffic like a yo-yo. We even saw a guy in Sorrento with a 11kg gas bottle between his legs going like the clappers, making us think the scooter is gas powered.
Remember, you are in Italy and they do not do what is boring, so chill out, go for a coffee or a glass of wine once you're parked and be like an Italian. Put your RayBans on and shop around for a nice leather jacket or a leather shoulder type bag which hangs down to your waist. Many men have them. Even if you're not rich make an effort and at least look like you are - you're in Italy, the Italians don't do overt poverty! The economy may be in tatters but their clothes aren't.
Hair styles and hairdressers, this is big money in Italy. The latest fashion for the under 30's is to have a US Marine style cut with a bit of two inch long black gelled hair on the top of the scalp. I saw many walk into the barber, with the barber not even being told what is wanted - he just knew! Whilst on Sicily Joan had the opportunity to have her hair done in a laundry. The campsite offered a service whereby the hairdresser visited the campsite every Monday where by appointment you could have your done in the laundry. That explained why you could not do any laundry on Mondays, it took us two Mondays to figure out why the laundry book was marked as FULL, but with no bookings for the washing machine. And Mondays are traditionally a laundry day .... well there it was a hairdressing day.

My first visit to Italy was way back in 1981, mainly Venice and Rome with a day trip to the island of Capri, passing through Naples. I made the decision then and 30 years later still stuck to it .... forget it! Naples is mainly a garbage dump. It was indescribably dirty with discarded fridges and TVs thrown in streams and waterways. Many fellow motorhome travellers I spoke to this time round said it's still the same and worse. We went to Pompeii instead, which is less polluted and has the attractions of Vesuvius and the ruins of 'old' Pompeii. You can train to Naples if you have to.
The old saying of 'the rich north and the poor south' still applies and is very visible the further south you go. A modern motorway system is only now being completed to improve transport links in Calabria and Campania provinces. The topography is hilly and mountainous and many tunnels are being built to facilitate this. In some ways we had the impression that the southern provinces of Italy were neglected over many decades.

The people of Italy, the real Italians and the Sicilians, we found to be generous and forthcoming in so many ways. They do enjoy life (La Dolce Vita) and they have an easy going manner, we found them easy to talk to and not averse to striking up a conversation. Staff in supermarkets were always willing to show us where certain products were and most of the younger generation spoke some English - many had been to London on sightseeing tours and short breaks.
Staying on three different campsites also meant that we got to know many fellow British motorhomers - what a bonus! To all of them we say thank you for your company! We had some great laughs and the 'Sundowners' at Camping Scarabeo will be long remembered. So too our Christmas and New Years Eve celebrations at Camper Lagani - Cheers all you Guys and Gals!

Ciao Italia!

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